The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — You want to believe in Guillaume Henry. He is a charming, dreamy gentleman. But, most of all, with his work around the idea of French lady chic at Nina Ricci, he has been ahead of the curve in the current resurgence of powerful femininity.
Yet, something is clearly not working here. His collections sway too much from season to season, as if the designer is following too much competing advice, which makes the new codes of the house difficult to decipher.
Today's show had a lustrous sultriness and a hint of soccer-inspired sportiness that felt tempting, but the overall result lacked focus. The woman here is clearly not the French lady of last season. Maybe she is just
en vacance
. But Henry can bring her back. He has the talent to do so.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.