MILAN, Italy — The first looks in Marco de Vincenzo's show today — languid fringed numbers, as intricate and inventive as we have come to expect from this wunderkind — hit the runway paired with sneakers. The look felt fresh. A relief, really. Up until now, Marco de Vincenzo has tended towards the ladylike. He needed to get a little bit more dirty with reality, so to speak, and this collection was a welcome step in this direction.

The goings got light and floaty; giddy, even. What de Vincenzo has to work on now is editing: there were far too many ideas at work, and this weakened the message. Concision is key, especially for a designer as talented as he is.