He checked the minimalism of the mid-90s as a reference, which roused memories of Helmut Lang’s heyday. Barrett has the same knack for infusing utilitarianism with sensuality. His tailor’s proficiency with proportion — whether cropped or exaggerated — means that you’re always aware of the body in the clothing. In the past, he’s translated that sensibility almost unchanged to his womenswear to make some of the best tomboy clothes on the market. The women’s looks he showed on Saturday were more obviously female in their form, some even flaunting a little flounce. Perhaps that was an expression of growing confidence on Barrett’s part, but they have a way to go before they’re as convincing as his menswear.