The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — There was nothing boring at Marni, where Consuelo Castiglioni keeps fine-tuning her idea of a young man who is both pensive and bold, quiet and outspoken. As it often happens for this label, the collection had its roots in workwear: velcro closures and open backs on coats pointed strongly towards lab coats, butcher gear and other manifestations of utility.
It was done in the most non-literal of ways, of course, because Castiglioni favors quirkiness and intelligent unpredictability. The subcultural nods were particularly effective: bondage straps of unmistakable punk roots were treated as graphic elements, landing tailored jackets and flat-front slacks a charmingly chaotic feel. As for colours, apart from light blue, there were no pale pastels, while striking shots of orange lit a classic base of khaki and deep blue. It worked wonderfully, suggesting a dryly humorous mix of the academic and the rebellious.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.