PARIS, France — Virgil Abloh re-jigged the autumnal forest of his Men’s Off White show set into a new space: from UNESCO to the Palais de Tokyo, the differences were subtle but enough to remark upon. Like the fact that the bare trees he’d planted around the place in January now hung from the ceiling. If that was a metaphor for lightness and suspension, it chimed well with Abloh’s flighty experiments with nude mesh, sequinned swallows and cloudy blue checked tailoring, all of which continued his quest to elevate Off White from its streetwear origins into a fully-fledged fashion house.
This season seemed to click in a way that recent outings haven’t — Abloh controlled his floaty flou dresses with longer lengths and a stricter hand, and tailored jackets felt fresh when contoured and cropped to just below the bust. Those sick of logomania in a season rife with text may have reason to reconsider — his brand stamped on lace looked perversely fresher than ever.