NEW YORK, United States — Without sounding prophetic, it's not difficult to assume a Prabal Gurung collection will be a mixed bag: one bursting with sensual fabrics, pretty decorations, and modest, flattering cuts. The appeal of his clothes is one of the floaty and feminine variety, so why not take Gloria Steinem, one of the world's most prolific living feminist figures, to inspire them?

He did just that for Spring/Summer 2017, drawing from the 82-year-old's travels, writings, and bohemian personal style as a springboard for his asymmetric silk gowns trailing with details like handkerchief hems, ribbons or thread embroidery spelling out poetic (and political) quotes and scrawled floral prints galore. Bias cuts and spaghetti straps played to Gurung's strengths this time around, as did the appealing hold of rib-knit panels that hugged a story of jewel-toned satin dresses in all the right places.

Next season however, he best leave those pleated, floor-trailing wizard sleeves lie — they did no favours to an otherwise pretty pair of crepe columns at show's end.