The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — 'What's it all about?' When scanning a row of Tommy Hilfiger looks, the question seems superfluous. The designer's point of view is unwavering, and quite welcome in a week of men's shows filled with unclear propositions. To drive home his intentions even further, this season, Hilfiger and his team combed the company's archives, examining, dissecting and updating the most iconic pieces for 2016.
"Everything from the chino pant to the rugby shirt," Hilfiger explained. "We wanted to make all of these essentials new and fresh." The rugby shirt came knitted instead of woven and patchworked with different stripes, while a classic peacoat took on some decorative topstitching. A tailored pyjama suit — worn under a regal military coat trimmed in braided piping — was delightfully kitschy, while a widened trouser leg offered the sense of modernity Hilfiger promised. And you've got to admire he designer's commitment to the colour burgundy. So collegiate.
However, the collection’s cool factor was knocked down a few notches by overwrought sneakers covered with glen-plaid wool and the addition of tech-y zipper pockets on a pair of jeans. Who needs that stuff? Not the Hilfiger customer, who is surely more interested in a chalk-stripe flannel suit than these clumsy accoutrements.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.