The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — The sharp tailoring for which Paula Gerbase has made her name at 1205 was dryly lyrical this season. Playing with deceptive fabrics — synthetics that have the feel of natural materials, and vice versa — and asymmetric cutting and folding, Gerbase delivered a strong line-up of dynamic separates for women whose idea of style is absolutely fuss-free. Not an ounce of embellishment or decoration was stuck to her impeccable tailoring, yet the ode to refined, streamlined urban wear took a few unexpected turns. Woven cotton Afghan slippers and shaggy sheepskin skirts and coats, in particular, provided a raw, animal feel. This made for some welcome tension in a show that was, otherwise, all about twisted minimalism.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.