PARIS, France — "There is always a little bit of madame to what we do," said Glenn Martens backstage, with his irresistible grin, after presenting a very glamorous, very twisted madame at his latest Y/Project show. "We're growing with each season, not least because I am growing up, or getting older, myself," he added. Another grin, more charm.

That's what makes Martens unique and Y/Project so special: while his technical prowess and knowledge of the métier is faultless, he also knows how to twist it all upside down with humour and sarcasm while delivering beautiful clothes meant to be properly worn, not just flaunted on a runway.

His Autumn collection felt particularly grown up: curvaceous women paraded down narrow aisles to the sound of cars racing through traffic, clad in tube dresses, sculptural braided dresses, big fur coats and the usual array of incredible womanly architectures.

This being Y/Project, the clothes are meant to be worn in multiple ways as they twist, turn and ultimately deceive expectations and any preconceived narrowness of use. Y/Project empowers women because it lets them decide how they want to wear certain things, which is great. Martens' renewed interest in the salon rather than the street, marked a welcome move forward.