In recent weeks, three different groups of designers and retailers have proposed shifts to the industry’s product delivery and discounting calendars in a bid to create healthier, more profitable businesses. Can they pull it off?

Amidst the masculine stereotypes, Francesco Risso’s Marni moment best captured the underlying vibe of the week: an inner child run riot in the face of our grim times, reports Angelo Flaccavento.

The designer brought a dictatorial edge that seemed particularly appropriate for harder times.

Barrett nailed his first twenty years in business and is feeling the need to expand in different directions. Once the totem of restraint, he is now the guru of the mobile disco.

The designer is so scrupulously controlled that the merest flip of a wig can seem like a radical gesture. His 20th anniversary punk tribute let him cut loose a little.

The designer rose to the challenge he set for himself, an excursion into colour, and brought a gratifying spark of excitement to his latest collection.

The collection was a sharp, sophisticated consolidation of Barrett’s success, but its monochrome severity took its toll and the spectre of repetition reared its head.

Milanese designers referenced Balenciaga, Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy a bit too much, but Fendi, Marni and Zegna stood out.