8 February, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Pringle push, Luxury sales reveal confidence, Burberry 3D, Vuitton’s emotional intelligence, The meaning of green

Pringle thrown an £18m as it moves to recapture the luxury market (Guardian)
“The wealthy foreign owners of Pringle of Scotland have pumped another £18m into the loss-making brand’s continuing attempt to become a Burberry-style luxury label… accounts show the company has received injections of £10m and £8m from its owners, Hong Kong textile dynasty the Fang family.”

Luxury sales reveal return of confidence for the wealthy (FT)
“More prosperous shoppers seem to be defying continuing high unemployment levels and economic uncertainty to renew their spending on luxuries such as jewellery, fashion and cosmetics.”

Burberry show to live stream in 3D (Grazia)
“While guests will be sitting watching the ‘real’ fashion show at Chelsea College of Art & Design in London on February at 4 p.m, Fashion Editors and VIP guests in the selected cities will be putting on 3D spex to watch the larger-than-life broadcast in special ‘customized screening spaces’.”

Louis Vuitton’s emotion monitoring bags (Agenda Inc.)
“According to art director Fernando Lahoz’s website, Louis Vuitton is developing a series of emotion monitoring bags – technologically designed to ‘feel what you feel’… The bag incorporates a new HERM (heart and emotion rate monitor) in the form of a beautiful piece of jewelry which can be purchased with a bag or separately at Louis Vuitton stores.”

Sustainable fashion: what does green mean? (FT)
“‘Sustainable fashion?’… ‘What’s that?’ Good question. And here’s the truth: having spent two days in Copenhagen immersed in the concept, having thought about it over the weeks since then, and having canvassed a wide variety of fashion figures… no one knows.”

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7 February, 2010 by Imran Amed, Editor

The Fashion Trail | Vancouver’s Digital Olympics

Vancouver Olympics Red Mittens | Source: Hudson's Bay Company

Vancouver Olympics Red Mittens | Source: Hudson's Bay Company

VANCOUVER, Canada — Every two years that global extravaganza called the Olympic Games alternates between summer and winter sports. Next in line is Vancouver which will host the XXI Olympic Winter Games between 12-28 February 2010, costing the city in excess of $1.5 billion.

Over the weekend, Tyler Brûlé reckoned in the Financial Times that Canada is wasting an opportunity to re-brand itself to the world, using the Olympics as a communications platform like Sydney and Barcelona successfully did. Would-be Canadian Prime Minister Michael Ignatieff, on the other hand, seemed to have read Mr. Brûlé’s mind, writing in a New York Times Magazine article the day before that Canada is not looking to put its own brand at the centre of these Olympics as that would be un-Canadian.

But like it or not, this is the first truly social media Olympics. A digital footprint of these games will be left for eternity on countless Facebook pages and Twitter streams. It is the first time that athletes, hailing from more than 80 countries, will be tweeting their experiences from the sidelines while spectators share their experiences in real-time, uploading photos and videos, documenting every Olympic second for their friends and family back at home.

… Continue Reading

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5 February, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Jones buys Rodriguez, US retail recovery, LVMH earnings down, Hermès ups forecast, Which celebrities sell?

Robert Rodriguez Summer 2010 | Source: Robert Rodriguez

Robert Rodriguez Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Robert Rodriguez

Jones Apparel Acquires L.A. Designer Label (Apparel News)
“Jones Apparel Group Inc., the… corporation that has been on the hunt for brands, acquired Los Angeles womenswear contemporary label Robert Rodriguez for $28 million. Jones Apparel is hoping to expand the Robert Rodriguez name in other categories and other doors.”

US retail groups continue to recover (FT)
“Spending by US shoppers continued to bounce back from last year’s post-crash lows, with retailers ranging from luxury department stores to teen fashion boutiques yesterday reporting stronger sales in January.”

LVMH struggles to prise open purses of wealthy (Times Online)
“The luxury brands group, which markets Christian Dior perfume and Tag Heuer watches as well as Louis Vuitton luggage, failed to raise its game over the Christmas period. Sales in the final quarter of 2009 were flat or declining in every sector at LVMH.”

Hermès ups its 2009 profit forecast as sales excel (Reuters)
“French luxury group Hermès on Friday raised its own profit expectations for 2009 after posting forecast-beating full-year sales on the back of strong Christmas trading.”

Which Stars Sell Fashion? (WSJ)
“With the Academy Award nominations out this week, fashion designers are already jockeying to dress the stars for their big night. But rather than trying to pick the Oscar winners or the most fashionable celebrities, designers should be asking another question: Who will be the most effective at getting viewers to buy the clothes they see on the red carpet?”

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4 February, 2010 by W.David Marx

In Tokyo, Abercrombie Misses Its Mark

Abercrombie & Fitch, Ginza | Source: Fashionsnap.com

Abercrombie & Fitch, Ginza | Source: Fashionsnap.com

TOKYO, Japan — After several years of “will they or won’t they” speculation, American casual fashion retailer Abercrombie & Fitch finally opened its first retail store in Japan this past December. The 11-story shop in Tokyo’s upscale Ginza neighbourhood is just steps away from Uniqlo’s flagship store and Swedish fast fashion brand H&M.

As with every big retail opening in Tokyo, the first day of sales saw long lines of customers and swift business. The rumoured haul: ¥50 million (or about $550,000). Even without the benefit of an opening party or major press event, Abercrombie was able to rely on a small group of Japanese fans who had previously bought the brand’s products as souvenirs on trips to Hawaii or the continental United States.

But the big question is, will Abercrombie be able to win over new fans in Japan and replicate the unbelievably successful Japanese market entries of other mass fashion brands?

So far, the signs do not look good.

… Continue Reading

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4 February, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Zac Posen redux, Polo Ralph Lauren warns of Asia hit, Burani insolvency, W Hotels fashion fix, Kell on earth

Zac Posen Backstage | Source: NY Times

Zac Posen Backstage | Source: NY Times

The Trials of a Former Boy Wonder (NY Times)
“There was a time when brashness was a refreshing change in New York fashion, which had been dominated by a handful of aging mega-brands until Mr. Posen planted his flag in the biggest, most expensive tent in Bryant Park. But his extravagant success came so quickly…  that his setbacks echo all the more loudly.”

Polo Ralph Lauren profit rises as it warns of Asia hit (Market Watch)
“Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. reported a better-than-expected 5.5% increase in its fiscal third quarter profit… still investors looked beyond that to focus on what the company’s investment in Asia would mean for its fourth-quarter profit.”

Prosecutors Ask Insolvency For Burani Holder (WSJ)
“Troubled Italian apparel maker Mariella Burani Fashion Group SpA faced a new challenge Monday as prosecutors in Milan asked for insolvency proceedings to begin for one of its key shareholders.”

W Hotels to Name a Fashion Director (WSJ)
“Putting a new spin on the term “designer hotel,” boutique chain W Hotels is hiring a fashion director to amp up its style credentials and its profile within the fashion industry.”

TV’s baddest boss is back (CNN)
“Despite its moniker, reality television has rarely been intended to give you the real story. It deals in characters (sometimes caricatures) and is usually edited to prove a point. In the case of Kelly Cutrone, however, what you see is what you get.”

3 February, 2010 by Imran Amed, Editor

Fashion 2.0 | What The Independent Article Didn’t Tell Us

Tavi Gevinson's Bow at Dior Couture | Source: Twitpic by SteffiSchuetze

Tavi Gevinson's Bow at Dior Couture | Source: Twitpic by SteffiSchuetze

LONDON, United Kingdom — A veritable firestorm erupted across fashion blogs and twitter streams this week in response to an article that appeared in London’s Independent newspaper over the weekend, highlighting Tavi Gevinson’s front row presence at the Haute Couture shows in Paris.

In a piece entitled “Fluff flies as fashion writers pick a cat fight with bloggers,” The Independent reported that “senior fashion insiders believe blogs have turned into little more than mouthpieces for fashion brands, which are increasingly using bloggers to regurgitate their press releases.”

As those controversial words rippled through the blogosphere and twittersphere, the protest and outrage came from all quarters of the fashion blogging fraternity and sorority. And, while we at the BoF were hesitant to take the bait and join the fray — the whole ‘editors versus bloggers’ story is becoming tired — it would be even worse for us to remain silent. Indeed, the Independent article raises very important issues which merit further discussion and debate, and perhaps, a more balanced perspective on this so-called “backlash” against bloggers.

… Continue Reading

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3 February, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Kate Moss the designer, Esprit beats forecast, Abercrombie played out, Marc streams and Duffy tweets, Luxury 2010

Kate Moss for Longchamps | Source: Longchamps

Kate Moss for Longchamps | Source: Longchamps

Kate Moss: Bags of Style (IHT)
“‘I am not doing it for different personalities — it’s what I like,’ says Ms. Moss — or Kate, as she is known. At age 36, she has taken another step in her second life, as a designer rather than as a supermodel using her pretty face and sensual lips to promote other brands.”

Esprit 1st-Half Net Profit Down 5.2 percent; Beats Forecasts (WSJ)
“Fashion retailer Esprit Holdings Ltd. said Wednesday its first-half net profit fell 5.2% percent from a year earlier as a disappointing wholesale business offset the improvement in its core retail operations.”

Abercrombie & Fitch’s Style Sense Wears Thin With Some Shoppers (WSJ)
“Retail analysts said Abercrombie’s troubles go beyond pricing to its once unerring sense of style, a problem that could be trickier to fix. The logo T-shirt and torn jeans ensemble that Abercrombie made the unofficial school uniform a decade ago has played out.”

Marc Jacobs to Stream Show Live While Robert Duffy Hypes It via Twitter (NY Magazine)
“Further democratizing the Fashion Week process, Jacobs’s business partner Robert Duffy just started tweeting to document Marc’s progress on the collection.”

Luxury in 2010 (CNN)
“Is there a luxury hotlist for 2010? CNN’s Ayesha Durgahee reports.”

2 February, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | New Look IPO confirmed, Valentino rebounds, Uniqlo comes up short, CFDA incubator, The Luxury Prime

Taylor Momsen for New Look Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Nitrolicious

Taylor Momsen for New Look Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Nitrolicious

New Look to raise £650m in IPO as it takes on high street old guard (Telegraph)
“New Look aims to raise £650m by returning to the stock market, giving it the funds to repay debt and keep taking business from high street stalwarts Marks & Spencer and Next.”

Valentino Sales Rebound May Signal More Openings, Chief Says (Business Week)
“Retailing revenue rose at a ‘double-digit’ pace in the last two months, Valentino Fashion Group Chief Executive Officer Stefano Sassi said in an interview in Paris. The performance would indicate ‘we can grow more’ this year.”

Uniqlo sales mark first fall in 6 months in January (Reuters)
“Japan’s Fast Retailing said sales at its Uniqlo casual-clothing chain fell 7.2 percent in January, the first year-on-year decline in six months, blaming a shortage of inventory after robust sales the previous month.”

CFDA Chooses 12 Designers for Fashion Incubator (Style List)
“Half-off rent in the Big Apple? Sounds too good to be true, but twelve designers heard the improbable news from the CFDA and New York Economic Development Corporation today.”

The ‘Luxury Prime’: How Luxury Changes People (HBS Working Knowledge)
“Are people who travel in town cars and on corporate jets different—on a psychological level—from you and me? Does the availability of luxury goods “prime” individuals to be less concerned about or considerate toward others? The answer from new research seems to be yes.”

1 February, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Burkle eyes Barneys, Bloomingdale’s Dubai, Versace’s new look, Blogger backlash, Robert Polet in Davos

Barneys New York Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Barneys

Barneys New York Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Barneys

Burkle Angles for Controlling Stake in Barneys (WSJ)
“Billionaire Ronald Burkle is angling to take a controlling stake in Barneys New York, people familiar with the situation said, a bet that the company and battered luxury retail sector have seen the worst of the recession.”

Bloomingdale’s opens in Dubai (The National)
“From today, people in Dubai will be able to indulge in the magic of Bloomingdale’s as the American department store ventures outside the US for the first time in its 138-year history.”

Versace’s New Look (WSJ)
“At the House of Versace, Donatella is back in the saddle again. She now signs off on every leather bag, dinner plate and evening gown… With the House of Versace facing the toughest times since it flirted with bankruptcy in 2004, the family must now steer the company through the current crisis in luxury goods.”

Fluff flies as fashion writers pick a cat fight with bloggers (Independent)
“Enthusiasm has waned for bloggers such as Tavi Gevinson, the 13-year-old wunderkind who waltzed into the front row of the biggest catwalk shows, as former fans complain bloggers have been ‘bought off’ by the industry.”

Davos 2010: Gucci boss on the rise of the shrewd customer (BBC)
“Robert Polet, boss of Gucci group has said he has seen a shift in the way customers are approaching the purchase of luxury good… ‘People want to know does the promise you give as a brand really stands up’.”

29 January, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | A Man’s world, Versace restructures, H&M revival, Neimans stays luxe, Juicy founders step back

Hermes Silk

Hermès Timeless Silk Twill Ties | Source: Hermès

It’s a Man’s World (Newsweek)
“Just as some educators believe that single-sex classrooms are better for learning, some luxury brands are finding that single-sex boutiques boost the bottom line. While it’s not exactly a man’s world on Main Street, luxury brands are increasingly offering greater exclusivity in men-only shops.”

Versace Agrees on Job Cuts, Unveils Lower-Priced Women’s Line (Bloomberg)
“Gianni Versace has signed a preliminary agreement with unions on job cuts in Italy and introduced a lower-priced women’s wear collection as part of a plan to return to profitability in 2011.”

H&M fashions hopes of revival (FT)
“The results suggested H&M could be turning the corner after a series of disappointing sales figures last year… Karl-Johan Persson, H&M chief executive, said the economic outlook remained uncertain but predicted same-store sales would increase in 2010.”

Despite Economy, Neiman Marcus Stays Glamorous (Brand Channel)
“‘We have no intention of changing our business model or trading down,’ chief executive Burt Tansky told Wall Street analysts on a conference call last month. ‘It’s important to reiterate that we will continue to offer our customers the luxury and designer merchandise that they want to buy.’”

Juicy Couture’s Founders Step Back (Fashionista)
“Juicy Couture’s dynamic co-founders Gela Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy are stepping down as creative directors.  There will soon be a new creative director—Nash-Taylor and Skaist-Levy will transition into creative consultant roles.”