LONDON, United Kingdom — London-based label Kéji may only be one year old but already it is established as a cult favourite. Since its Autumn/Winter 2015 debut, Kéji has won the support of leading stockists worldwide, including Net-a-Porter, Selfridges in London, Barneys in Tokyo, Le Bon Marché in Paris and The Store at Soho House in Berlin. And in this short time, the brand has extended its core product offering from solely denim to a complete womenswear line, including ribbed-knit sweaters, velvet jackets and button-up dresses.

“Because there are already so many brands and so much product on the market, I initially didn’t want to launch a brand that offered everything for everyone. I thought about what message I could put across that was strong and edited,” says Katie Green, the brains behind the label. “It seems that every designer does denim now, but a lot of the time, it’s not very well considered. For me, it’s where I start. Denim serves as the starting point when I sit down to design.”

For Spring/Summer 2017, Green was focused on the freedom of movement, drawing references from skate parks and American skateboarder Christian Hosoi. She toyed with masculine shapes and sportswear elements, such as cord running through silk print dresses, sweatshirts woven with knitted cotton Aertex and screen-printed denim. “Our core customer is a cool, very dynamic person,” says Green. “She has a knowledge of quality and cut, because that really is one of Kéji’s strongest points. There’s a quality to our pieces that customers admire.”

An art history graduate, Green is no stranger to the fashion industry, having worked for eight years in London before launching her own label. The Hong Kong native started her career interning at Browns and Love magazine, before joining the publication full-time as Katie Grand's first assistant. After two years, Green "wanted to learn more about the business side of fashion" and applied to work at Net-a-Porter. "Holli Rogers, who was buying director at the time, heard that I worked for Katie Grand and she found that quite interesting, so she took a chance on me despite that I didn't have a retail background."

Green worked as a buyer at Net-a-Porter for three years—“a real education for me,” she says—before going out on her own when she noticed a gap in the market for elevated daywear. “I always harp on about pieces that perennially sit in your wardrobe that aren’t season or trend driven. I think that for a fashion-forward customer, the options are sometimes lacking in terms of beautiful everyday clothes that are well constructed and well considered. Daywear shouldn’t be off-duty.”

The Store at Soho House in Berlin, which sells brands like Loewe and Junya Watanabe, stocked Kéji from its first season. "It was fantastic to see Kéji mixed in with higher brands that I admire. Then, our first big account was Net-a-Porter, who picked us up for season two," says Green.

"Kéji launched at Net-a-Porter in March this year — we love how Katie uses non-stretch denim and focuses on tailoring in great washes and chic silhouettes," says Lisa Aiken, retail fashion director at Net-a-Porter, but notes it's not just the denim that keeps shoppers coming back. "Our global customers can't get enough of her jackets. Kéji's gorgeous waterproof velvet parka immediately sold out after launching on the site, while for Spring/Summer 2016, printed silk separates were the best sellers."

Denim, however, remains an important part of the brand, accounting for up to 50 percent of Kéji's collections. All of Kéji's denim and jersey is sourced in Japan, while silk is sourced and printed in the UK and the technical fabric for Kéji's outwear pieces come from Italy.

It seems that every designer does denim now, but a lot of the time, it's not very well considered. For me, it's where I start.

"After our first season we grew tremendously, but what's tricky is that you're financing the season's productions before you get paid, which is the gripe of most fashion brands. You're putting a lot of money into the company before you see a return," says Green, who attributes her business acumen to her years of experience. "In London, people always follow this clear path of going to Central Saint Martins or London College of Fashion. It took me a long time to get to the conclusion of starting my own label. But what's been really useful and insightful is that I've had a 360 view of the industry."

Looking ahead, Green hopes to bring on a strategic partner, “who can grapple with the business side of things and help us grow.” She continues: “Up until three months ago, I was really a one-woman band. I’ve just taken on a studio manager who is based in our studio in Bethnal Green.” Green is also hopeful to break into the Asian market, particularly in Japan. “But that takes time. It’s a case of reminding myself not to run before I can walk,” she acknowledges. “Being in Barneys is a huge boost for us in that market. Being from Asia, it’s important to me.”

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