The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
LONDON, United Kingdom — Despite the show's howling guitars and the white-light, white-heat atmosphere, Anthony Vaccarello insisted that his new collection for Versus had nothing to do with vintage rock 'n' roll. True, he was taking inspiration from the Versus archive, but the images he had in mind were Helmut Newton's Versace campaigns in Monaco, or the head-to-toe looks that distinguished Gianni Versace's work for his 1980s brand Istante.
Tonight, Elise Crombez made a head-to-toe look look fabulous, in a blouson, blouse and bermuda shorts ensemble whose Gothic floral print Vaccarello had adapted from Istante. Crombez wasn’t the only blast from the recent past in the show. Erin Wasson sported a black tank dress, clasped to one side across a naked buttock, which could be the new Elizabeth-Hurley-safety-pin-dress moment on the appropriate vedette.
The very thought of that underscores how successful Vaccarello has been at mastering the Versace vibe in a way that applies equally to Versus. Buttons spelled VERSUS on Binx Walton's strapless sheath. Lily Donaldson wore a leather coat/dress which would need a Newton to do it full justice. Against such womanly resonance, the menswear couldn't help but look obligatory, which means there is still a significant amount of clunk to sort out with the reboot. But, Vaccarello is the man to do it.
And designer Sabato De Sarno doubles down with his Cruise ‘25 show for the brand, writes Tim Blanks.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.