The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
LONDON, United Kingdom — Patrick Grant's show for E. Tautz posed one burning question: what about this particular collection made the designer feel it would benefit from runway exposure? It would have been so much better for the silver-tongued Grant to talk through the clothes in a presentation, clarifying their unassuming subtleties, couching limitations as quiet strengths, rather than marching them context-less down a catwalk. That's not strictly accurate: there were notes that spoke of Peter Mitchell's photographs of scarecrows, which served a somewhat misleading purpose in whetting a pre-show appetite for shambolically charming experiments in dress.
True, Grant’s boxy flannels and tweeds, baggy pleated pants and nubbly knits had a worn edge, but hardly scarecrow-old. Instead, they were more like the earth-toned casualwear Dad would choose for a weekend out of town. And maybe he’d listen to Phil Collins on the drive, because that was the soundtrack on Saturday morning.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.