PARIS, France — Cerruti appointed the American designer Jason Basmajian less than 9 months ago, and his second collection for the storied Parisian house has continued in the vein of restrained and subtle heritage garments that marked his reign at Gieves & Hawkes prior. Calling on the resources of Nino Cerruti's prestigious Italian mills, his Spring 2017 outing was awash with custom textiles — many featuring a hybrid, leafy camouflage inspired by the motifs of tree bark.

The palette too relied on natural shades, as chalky greys and mineral blues lent an overwhelming sense of neutrality to the collection, unaided by the static presentation format of models on plywood islands illuminated by fluorescent tubes. Instead what shone here was Basmajian’s purist treatment of denim (a two-tone dipped indigo jean felt the most progressive of the offering), and the languid proposition of an unlined, cool wool duster coat over shirting as a modern summer suit felt fresh too.