PARIS — “We miss crazy fashions,” said Demna backstage at the Balenciaga show Sunday. This is why one used to come to Paris Fashion Week: mind-expanding, oftentimes challenging, progressive and, indeed, “crazy” fashions. Less so these days, with the exception of the usual suspects: the Japanese, Rick Owens, John Galliano, Demna himself and the brilliant newcomer Duran Lantik.
Let’s be clear: focusing on what sells, per se, is not a problem. Sales are, after all, what fuels the industry and keeps brands afloat. It is the plague of banality that weighs on things. It is the inability to break one’s own mould, whatever it is, creating a sense of déjà-vu. And in Paris, I was left craving something new.
Accessibility was everywhere and an emphasis on simplicity reigned. Everybody wants to be The Row, but not everybody can grasp that unique, WASP-y, fashion-nun take on less is more. This season, however, even the Olsen twins were in a particularly laid back spirit — towels on shoulders, anyone?
The goings at colourful and crazy Marni looked, according to an hilarious meme, like “ArMARNIfication” this season. But it worked. Despite Francesco Risso’s efforts at producing a truly Parisian extravaganza for his touch down in the city of lights, complete with papier mache crinolines and Comme-inflected roses-sprouting silhouettes inside a tony mansion glistening with gold and stuccoes, it was when his designs were more subdued, even strict, that he truly shone and moved things forward.
Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Courtesy) Marni Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Courtesy) Louise Trotter’s debut at Carven was a balance of strict and soft applied to an hourglass silhouette stripped to the bare minimum. It was a perfectly formed outing of perfectly wearable things that, although inoffensive, lacked originality and personality: from 90s Jil Sander to No21 (Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s riffs of lingerie and ability with spare yet sumptuous decoration where everywhere this season) the references were too evident.
At Givenchy, since the beginning of his tenure in 2020 designer Matthew Williams has gone this way and that in search of an individual signature. This season it was elongated classicism in painterly colours, and a mix of tailoring and flou that wasn’t particularly distinctive.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital/Indigital) Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Indigital/Indigital) Giambattista Valli, who the night of his show was awarded the Chevalier de l’Ordre des Artes et des Lettres medal, livened up his act and found a charming, ethereal angle on the glamorous Valli girl. Doing away with over-conceptualised but pointless narratives (save for the distracting if captivating dance and music performance by FKA Twigs that took place during the show) Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli focused on dressmaking, and toyed with ideas of nudity and dress, reflected in a see through, spongy cutout technique that looked like stucco wrought out on the body. It made for a focused if slightly monotonous outing that could have used more intimate staging.
Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) The dance performance that opened and closed the Issey Miyake show was equally distracting, much to the detriment of a masterful windswept collection that was a study in movement and change, captured in cloth and colours. Creative director Satoshi Kondo keeps growing his voice, steadily making the brand relevant again. His way with shape is considered and powerful. And he has managed to preserve Miyake’s focus on technical innovation, still the core of the label’s engine.
Peter Do’s Paris debut was all about precision and a little languor, and it was charming, while Gauchere’s Marie-Christine Statz explored hard-edged 90s minimalism with a soft hand, and scored. Stella McCartney is certainly not a minimalist: her way with the mannish and the girly, however, fits in this vein. This new collection iterated the code accelerating a transgenerational and genderless openness that felt relevant. Less so the “Sustainable Market” that worked as a backdrop to the outing, showcasing some of the label’s innovation partners. As much as it was informative, it fell flat conceptually, the stress on eco-commitments charged with a sort of teenage fervour.
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 66. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 67. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 68. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 69. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 70. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 71. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 72. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 73. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 74. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 75. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 76. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 77. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 78. (Indigital) Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2024 look 79. (Indigital) At Victoria Beckham, if the designer wants to be credited as an auteur, she needs to get rid of the obvious Martin Margiela and Loewe references. Elsewhere, it was linen and broken mirrors for an industrial fantasy of racy seduction at Acne Studios, but it all looked rather Balenciaga. The glaring pop set at Dior — Elena Bellantoni’s video collages critiquing late capitalist sexism — conflicted with the mock pauperism of one of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s most sombre and least inspired collections. The orange plastic sheeting at Louis Vuitton did not quite gel with a collection with which Nicolas Ghesquière chartered softer waters and even a certain sentiment, doing away with the hard, robotic looks he so often dons. Spontaneity was still missing, but a certain French spleen made the goings engaging.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) At Saint Laurent monumental slabs of marble, much in the vein of the maison’s stores, created a funereal feel that perfectly matched a softly militaristic collection that basically circled around Yves’ own Safari jacket of 1967. Anthony Vaccarello, however, took away the counterculture, street protest vibes that made that piece so memorable back in the day, and amplified the madame aspect. It’s a process that’s been going on for quite a few seasons now: the youthful way of his beginnings is gone, and Vaccarello is finally exploring a more mature side of his woman. There was elegance and precision, but that bolt of energy that made things special looked sedated.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital) Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Indigital) The context was gorgeously dilapidated at Dries Van Noten: a feast of délabré everything that amplified the layered richness of a collection in which the masculine and the feminine met, merging graphism and decoration in ways that were quintessentially Dries, yet not nostalgic. The lack of social media tricks, despite the cavernous, sound-enhancing venue, highlighted the inherent dryness, even dullness of Coperni just as much as it took a cracking floor to add tingle to a powerful Courrèges outing in which Nicolas Di Felice added fluidity to his usually firm lines, finding new ways to deliver an youthful, energetic take on sex appeal.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital) Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Indigital) At Hermès, it was a real prairie inside a white box: a Jacquemus-esque way to enhance a collection in which Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski explored a softer take on tailoring and leather, delivering quiet luxury in not so quiet shades of red. At Chanel, an abstract rendition of Hyères’ Villa Noailles framed Virginie Viard’s modernist, slightly yé-yé Chanel. A certain clumsiness, however, was still visible.
Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Elsewhere, streamlining meant a focus not on verticality, but on shapely sculptural construction. Chitose Abe channelled a kind of Gianfranco Ferré architectural grandeur at Sacai, mixed with her unique take on metropolitan sleekness on tall platforms, and it was a blast. Gabriel Hearst’s last show at Chloé was a bit lazy and dry, and left the brand in need to better define the woman it caters to. At Mugler, bustiers and floating veils were all Casey Cadwallader needed to attain a powerful fashion drama and attune once again Thierry’s uber glamour to the now. The wide span of the late Mugler’s expression has of course been compacted and restricted along the way but to powerful effect.
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (IK ALDAMA/Indigital) Sarah Burton’s final outing at Alexander McQueen was a touching recap of what the house that Lee built stands for: empowering women through clothing, exploring the joys of sartorial technique along the way. The shapeliness over at Balmain was of a more flamboyant, even camp kind. And yet, Olivier Rousteing is newly in a softer mode, and the results had an individual charm. At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry went a bit all over the place: the strictness was convincing, but the Moschino-esque messiness and humour were literal in the Elsa world and unnecessary.
Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Courtesy) Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Courtesy) Much of the season was about reasserting brand identities, hammering on the codes in order to safely occupy space in an overcrowded market full of pale, interchangeable fashion entities. It was primaevalmetal and sci-fi galore at Rabanne, a resort spirit for every season at Zimmermann and twisting, collapsing, twirling multipurpose shapes at Y/Project. The same, different. Stefano Gallici’s debut at Ann Demeulemeester riffed on Ann’s barbarian, multilayered side, and on the trailing ribbons, and emotional tailoring. The point of view is there and the execution was flawless, but further steering away from the archive will do Gallici good in the future. Yohji Yamamoto is a master of endurance, forever black and poetic. This season the master was feeling particularly black — not even a single white or red passage — but a new sensuality crept in, and the body felt more alive, the skin more visible.
Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 66. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 67. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 68. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 69. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 70. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 71. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 72. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 73. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 74. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 75. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 76. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 77. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 78. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 79. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 80. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 81. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 82. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 83. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 84. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 85. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 86. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 87. (Courtesy) Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 look 88. (Courtesy) The matter of identity this season was central also on another level: the way one’s persona is perceived through clothing, and the reaction that brings about in strangers. At Balenciaga, Demna stated clearly: “This is what I am, this is what I do: clothing that does not project an idea of status and wealth. We work from the bottom up.” That such work caters to those who want to appear wealthy and à la mode is a perfectly plausible contradiction; a perversion, even. Presented against very Otto Dix, but also very Gaultier, red velvet curtains, on Demna’s personal tribe, including his mum and his husband, the collection was the designer doing more of the same. But what also came across was Demna’s genuine passion for dressmaking.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Maison Margiela) Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Maison Margiela) John Galliano is similarly inclined, his way with cloth and character building unparalleled, his belief in the transformative power of clothing elating. At Margiela, the designer’s pauperistic take on pompous glamour, and the idea of items of clothing crossing genders and generations was handled in such a crudely theatrical way — cardboard lantern hats, basting aplenty, bustiers falling apart — that one felt his visceral urge for truth. After all, so the saying goes, whoever wears a mask, says the truth.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital) Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital) In brilliant form at Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada took the theme of items crossing generations from her own, twistedly realistic angle, exploring complexity in a way so raw and spontaneous, and the results wereutterly sophisticated. The Miu Miu posse looked like survivors of a rainstorm who raided their inherited suitcases, dressing both with a plan and in haste, a pair of swimming trunks always at ready, mixing opera coat and RaRa skirt, blazers and surfing shorts. It was a pure celebration of fashion as an ever evolving expression of beauty and change. As such, it was joyous.
Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Undercover Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (launchmetrics.com/spotlight) Ah, joy: such a difficult feeling in these forlorn times. Unsurprisingly, it was the typically gloomiest of designers who explored vitality: Rei Kawakubo with bulbous shapes in kaleidoscopic hues at Comme des Garçons, Jun Takahashi of Undercover, who was feeling poetic and melancholic, and Rick Owens, whose procession of impossibly tall, veiled creatures was eerily optimistic, yet still replete with his familiar glunge doom. Junya Watabe’s cubistic concoctions and Noir’s punkish wearable sculpture oozed vitality.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) And yet the best collection of the season in a season of normality belonged to Jonathan Anderson, who at Loewe delivered a deliciously radical take on the matter, producing his most straightforward outing to date, completely devoid of his usual surrealism. Looking almost like a Milanese ready to wear collection from the early 80s, focusing on a tall high waisted silhouette, it was a potent statement on wearability, gestures that define clothing and clothes that enhance gestures. Indeed, the crazy fashions Anderson is so good at were missing, but it was stimulating to see a zing of that madness infiltrating the everyday. Normal, at least in this case, was not normal at all, and all the better for that.