Miuccia turned her show into an intricate confrontation between liberation and conservatism, resulting in the most intense collection of the season to date.

Tim Blanks gets a first look inside the reinvention of the former colossus ahead of its New York Fashion Week debut, designed by Niall Sloan and brought to life by a dream team of Pat McGrath, Guido Palau, Jacob K, Frederic Sanchez and Stefan Beckman.

Francesco Risso exhumed vintage uniforms and twisted them into new guises. But the show’s presentation pointed to layers deeper and darker than catwalk hijinks.

Francesco Risso created a sense of dreamy alt-reality at his latest outing for Marni, but there was a seriousness not just of play but of purpose to the collection.

Bouchra Jarrar repaired some of last season’s issues with overt transparency, but there’s still work to be done in getting this remix right.

As talk turns towards a future of consumer-facing fashion shows, we look back on the 1989 Martin Margiela presentation, which set a new paradigm for the fashion show as a public spectacle, in an oral history with contributions from Margiela’s closest collaborators and biggest supporters of the time, courtesy of The Gentlewoman.

BoF goes inside the mind of the man behind some of fashion’s most cerebral and carefully-curated soundtracks.

Francisco Costa's distressed glamour was a wonderful blur of sensuous sequinned slips, silken floor-length florals and sensational silk trousers.