Julien David

The designer delivered a collection that was as normal and charming as always.

The fabrics were certainly special, but otherwise the design seemed a little bit lazy.

The collection was functional — multiple pockets everywhere, boots, olive drab — sombre and decidedly repetive. A stricter edit would have helped. A bit more playfulness, too.

David has a point of view, which sits at the crossing of French chic and Japanese experimentalism. 

Flux and fluidity, often manifest as travel, emerged again at the Paris men's shows, reflecting the ever-changing state of fashion and the wider world.

The uniform-like suits were a bit labourer, a tad Mao, but all the fuss was on the spiky hairdos.

Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Kolor and Julien David showed masculinity in many forms.

Nature versus nurture creates a schizoid undertow in Julien David's new collection.