Stefan Beckman

Scaling the heights of American fashion. That’s exactly where Jacobs was headed once again.

Tim Blanks gets a first look inside the reinvention of the former colossus ahead of its New York Fashion Week debut, designed by Niall Sloan and brought to life by a dream team of Pat McGrath, Guido Palau, Jacob K, Frederic Sanchez and Stefan Beckman.

Downbeat media coverage paints a portrait of a king diminished, but Jacobs’ uncompromising collection felt like his most pointed up-yours to commercial nitpicking.

If Coach has been America's house of leather for 76 years, this collection was its evolution into an American luxury brand.

Stuart Vevers, with his outsider’s sensibility, infused the new collection with his love of Keith Haring; the takeaway was an upbeat celebration of youth and beauty.

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia's gutsy double show underscored how hard it is to design two labels at once.

The collections will be shown on the runway consecutively, with no break, on Monday, February 13.

A Gothic highschool Cinderella with echoes of The Addams Family, Beetlejuice and all those little trading figurines Tim Burton created. 

On the last day of NYFW, you could get a sense of where American fashion has been, where it is now, and where it might — or would like — to be going.

BoF editor-in-chief Imran Amed recaps the week in the business of fashion.