The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — How does a brand with "zero heritage" interpret a decade like the 1950s? That's the challenge Monse designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia set for themselves when developing Autumn/Winter 2018, a sharp-edged lineup of Frankenstein trench-coat-blazer hybrids, bi-colour "half-and-half" furs and plenty of novelty motifs, from trousers stamped with "Monse International" to a silk dress printed with pages from a Mid-Century clothing pattern book. A leather shopping bag was designed in the likeness of an old-timey flour sack, easily scrunched up and tucked under the arm. (It'll do gangbusters on Instagram, which isn't a terrible thing when launching a new product category).
Monse may not have years of history to rely upon, but in the few short years since its inception, Kim and Garcia, who also serve as co-creative directors of Oscar de la Renta, have managed to take one idea — deconstructed menswear — and keep it moving. The clothes have bite.
This season, instead of staging a runway show, Garcia and Kim made their way down to Coney Island with the forever-gorgeous Erin Wasson and director Fabien Constant, who created a jazzy little film. Friend of the house Nicki Minaj recorded a voiceover, writing her own dialogue for the narrative. The line that stuck — “I’ve extended my winning streak” — was fitting. Monse is still rolling.
And designer Sabato De Sarno doubles down with his Cruise ‘25 show for the brand, writes Tim Blanks.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.