The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — This season, Danielle Sherman was inspired by Sharon Beals' photographs of wild bird's nests, the black backdrops and layers of random objects serving as a starting point for a number of the season's prints and textures, including a colourful mohair tweed developed with the South African producer Hinterveld, a photo-print satin featuring a spray of random buttons, and a confetti velour. Many of the fabrics were fashioned into the season's ribbed-collar tracksuit, which was significantly cinched to create a real hourglass shape. (The designer favours masculine shapes and menswear ideas, so this was her way of incorporating femininity into the collection.) There was a hand-done feeling to many of the details, like fluro whipstitching on a windowpane check shawl, unravelling pinstripes on a raw-edge slip dress and randomly sized buttons down the front of a knit. Those flourishes matched nicely with the shoes, a creeper-brogue combination made sleeker by taking out the tongue.
Once again, Sherman worked with artisans from all over Africa in order to fulfil Edun’s original mission of ethical sourcing. For instance, Larbi Oubihi, a third-generation Berber silversmith, hammered the light-catching brooches that decorated several looks. What the designer has brought to the label is consistency and a real aesthetic. Has it been enough, though, to get Edun where its founders and its corporate owner, LVMH, would like the business to be? There is so much baggage with this brand that it might be an impossible task. The good news is that Sherman makes intriguing, cool separates such as this season’s work jacket, done best in a dusty-rose, super-wide wale corduroy.
And designer Sabato De Sarno doubles down with his Cruise ‘25 show for the brand, writes Tim Blanks.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.