The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — So far, Marcelo Burlon, the polymath behind the County of Milan phenomenon, has not exactly been taken seriously as a designer. After all, he did not train as one. His fashionable path started with a bunch of t-shirts and soon evolved into reconfigured urbanwear. Well, consider this to be the past.
Heralded by the rather menacing slogan "New Renaissance after a Cultural Armageddon" (splashed as print here and there) the new County of Milan collection marked a turning point, with a decisive switch towards fashion. Silhouettes were layered and sculptural, with functional details adding a pragmatic yet abstract twist to seriously oversized volumes. The press notes announced a posse of post apocalyptic gauchos. And a posse it was: sombrely elegant but not at all apocalyptic. There was probably too much of Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto in the air, and the show would have benefited from a vigorous editing, but it was a convincing move towards bright new territories.
And designer Sabato De Sarno doubles down with his Cruise ‘25 show for the brand, writes Tim Blanks.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.