The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — Even when performed in an orchestral arrangement, the unmistakable melody of the song "California Dreaming" by the Mamas & the Papas instantly transported the audience of the Michael Kors show to a particular time and place. But just like the chosen version of the song elevated it to a more refined level so too did Kors raise the bohemian Californian aesthetic into the leagues of contemporary luxury.
The billionaire designer proved, exit after exit, why he made it past the millionaire mark. Each look was filled with foundation pieces that women can depend on long past a single winter season. From the first outfit worn by Carolyn Murphy that consisted of a practical glen plaid coat, mohair sweater and chiffon peasant skirt, which Kors finished off with a low slung circle belt, open toe heeled mules, a fringe clutch and tweed fox scarf, to the final ensemble, which was a highly feminine alternative to an evening dress - a black embroidered Chantilly lace blouse with wing-like chiffon sleeves flowing down the body paired with classic black trousers, this collection nailed urban sophistication.
If we are going to talk about the themes of this show there was nothing earth shattering to report back on. The clothing was faithful to the chosen boho style with peasant tops and skirts, chunky oversized sweaters, full legged trousers and great outerwear from salt and pepper fur jackets to camel coats. But among all the winners some pieces still stood out. The mink coat and scarves that look as if they were reflecting a cloudy moonlit night sky were lovely, and some grey dresses embellished with metal grommets and fabric flowers had a youthful whimsy look about them.
Buyers are going to have to re-jigger their order projects to accommodate an even bigger buy then normal for this Kors collection. But the biggest problem is going to be for all of the perfectly groomed front row Kors devotees at the show. The challenge: how to not show up at a posh event wearing the same Kors combo as one of their contemporaries.
Powered by NowFashion.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.