The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
GoshYe? Whatever you call it, Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy and the rapper formerly known as Kanye West — two of streetwear’s most influential and famously cancelled figures — are joining forces.
West, now known as Ye, has appointed Rubchinskiy head of design at the rapper’s Yeezy brand, whose multi-billion-dollar sneaker deal with Adidas was terminated last year after Ye made a series of inflammatory statements that veered into antisemitism.
Rubchinskiy — who began working with Ye a few months ago, designing the cover artwork and merch for “Vultures,” the rapper’s new album with Ty Dolla $ign — will oversee Yeezy’s men’s offering.
“I’m delighted to join Yeezy as the head designer,” Rubchinskiy told BoF. “This opportunity allows us to merge our creative visions and build bridges, highlighting the transformative power of culture.”
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The same belief — that cultural products can create common ground in a polarised world where mistrust and cancellation are common — is at the core of a push to relaunch the Gosha Rubchinskiy brand, too.
The label rocketed to success with a post-Soviet, skater-inflected concept backed by Comme des Garçons before shuttering in 2018 after the designer faced misconduct allegations that tainted his public image.
Now, Rubchinskiy, who last year parted ways with Comme des Garçons and the Rassvet label which he co-founded in 2016, has inked a deal with a new financial backer and aims to rebuild his namesake business. His first collection for the revamped brand will drop next year.
“We’re delighted to introduce the new direction of the Gosha Rubchinskiy fashion brand as an independent creative powerhouse. Stepping away from the Comme des Garçons and Rassvet family, our brand is forging its own path,” the label said in a statement.
BoF spoke exclusively with Gosha Rubchinskiy and Adrian Joffe, president of Comme des Garçons, to learn how the company catalysed the rapid growth of the skater-inflected fashion label.
BoF can exclusively reveal the thinking behind Gosha Rubchinskiy’s new multi-season partnership with Adidas Football, launched Thursday in the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad, amidst growing geopolitical tensions.
Vikram Alexei Kansara is Editorial Director at The Business of Fashion. He is based in London and oversees BoF’s luxury, fashion week, sustainability, global markets and opinion verticals.
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