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The China Edit | Homegrown Designers, Cotton On and Longchamp, Victoria's Secret

The China Edit is a weekly curation of the most important fashion business news and analysis from and about the world’s largest luxury market.
Designer Yiqing Yin of Leonard | Source: AFP
By
  • Lina Lee,
  • Lisa Wang

"Chinese Designers to the Fore" (The New York Times)

“Despite China’s importance in the global luxury market and the growth of its fashion industry, few of its designers are well-known names in the West. It is a situation that Gemma Williams, who curates fashion exhibitions in London, hopes to improve with the publication of ‘Fashion China’ by Thames & Hudson in the spring of 2015. Ms. Williams has been working on the book for six months, beginning with the creation of a committee to choose which designers to include in a final group of 40 to 50.”

"Cotton On Seeks Chinese Partner to Challenge Zara, H&M Dominance" (Bloomberg)

"Cotton On, along with apparel companies such as Fast Retailing and Inditex SA's Zara, are expanding in China as rising incomes boost buying power. The North Geelong, Victoria- based retailer, which also owns brands including Rubi Shoes, Supré and Typo, is opening more than 100 stores in Asian markets including South Korea, Japan and Vietnam to cut its reliance on Australia, which made up 55 percent of sales last year."

"French Handbag Maker Longchamp Sees More Potential in China" (Reuters)

"Longchamp, one of France's leading handbag makers, plans to increase its presence in China, its chief executive said, in sharp contrast to retrenchment by rivals and despite the economic slowdown and changing consumer culture there. Many leading luxury brands such as Kering's Gucci and LVMH's Louis Vuitton have put the brakes on further store openings in China as part of campaigns to preserve their exclusive image."

"Under Shadow of Crackdown, Less Luxury Fashion Paraded at China's Big Government Meetings" (Bloomberg Businessweek)

“Once a year, China’s Great Hall of the People becomes an important place to see and be seen for some 3,000 delegates attending the legislative sessions of the National People’s Congress and the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference. In the past it’s been quite a fashion show. But this year, bowing to political winds, expensive ostentation is out — and low-key style is back in.”

"Victoria's Secret is Launching in Mainland China — But It's Not Selling Underwear" (Quartz)

"Victoria's Secret is making its first foray into mainland China, parent company L Brands announced last week, with the opening of Victoria's Secret Beauty and Accessories stores later this year. But blinged-out bras, lace undergarments, and $50 sweatpants won't be available there just yet. These 'VSBA' stores are smaller outlets that are often located in airports. Typically, some of them sell underwear, but when queried by Quartz, L Brands said the VSBA stores in China would 'focus on an iconic, fashion-forward range of beauty products, including our award-winning prestige fragrances, and chic accessories.'"

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