Phoebe Philo is the creative director and majority owner of her namesake direct-to-consumer label, which is backed by LVMH. The long-awaited venture, which launched after multiple delays in October 2023, spans clothing and accessories, fusing the luxe minimalism Philo is best known for with a raw, shredded edge, BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks observed.
Before starting her own brand, Philo spent 10 years as creative director at LVMH-owned Celine, exiting in 2017. Her work at the house redefined what women aspired to wear, with her minimalist aesthetic, clean lines and tonal colour palette gaining traction with critics and consumers alike. Consistently name checked by fashion insiders as the label they want to wear, Philo successfully resuscitated a tired Parisian house and recast it as an imperative part of each season’s fashion dialogue.
The designer studied at Central Saint Martins before joining her friend Stella McCartney at Chloé as her first assistant in 1997. Following McCartney’s exit from Chloé in 2001, Philo took over the reins of the house as creative director.
Under Philo’s leadership, Chloé became one of Paris Fashion Week’s most coveted invites and the brand was a commercial success thanks to Philo’s effortless, feminine creations and profitable “It” bag designs, such as the Paddington, which launched in 2005. Philo resigned from her role at Chloé in 2006, taking a step back from the fast-paced fashion industry; without elaborating as to her reasons, she did cite a desire to spend more time with her family.
After a two-year hiatus, Philo returned to the studio, accepting the creative directorship of LVMH’s Celine. With regards to her aesthetic, Philo told British Vogue, “I felt it was time for a more back-to-reality approach to fashion, clothes that are beautiful, strong and have ideas, but with real life driving them.” Her sentiments perfectly reflected the mood of the moment, resulting in double-digit growth for the company and a new roster of cult items, including the much-copied luggage tote.
In December 2017, it was announced Philo would leave Celine after its Autumn/Winter 2018 presentation. “Working with Celine has been an exceptional experience for me these last 10 years,” commented Philo in an official release. Hedi Slimane, formerly creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, took over the head design role in 2018, rebranding the French fashion house as Celine.
In July 2021, Philo confirmed her return to fashion as the majority owner of her own clothing and accessories label, backed by her former employer LVMH, which took a minority stake in the new venture. After multiple delays, the designer’s digital, direct-to-consumer brand launched in October 2023.
Philo won British Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in 2010, for the second time. In 2011, Philo received the International Award at the CFDA Fashion Awards.