The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Paul Andrew, the British-born, New York-based designer most recently known as the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, is relaunching his namesake brand this autumn in stores, with images set to be released in March.
To start, the focus of the collection will be on a few silhouettes that blend novelty and colour with comfort and wearability.
“It’s on my own time, on my own pace,” Andrew told BoF. “The targets are based on my own ambitions and I can scale the business as fast or slowly as I choose.
The announcement comes nearly a year after the news that the designer would exit his role at the Florence-based Salvatore Ferragamo. Andrew joined the company in 2016 as women’s footwear director and was promoted to oversee all categories in 2019. Since he left Ferragamo in the spring of 2021, the company has undergone an executive changeover, with former Burberry chief Marco Gobbetti joining at CEO at the beginning of 2022.
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After an early stint in London at Alexander McQueen, Andrew made a name for himself in New York as a go-to shoe designer for Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez, among others. In 2012, he launched his own line, received warmly by retailers in a category that weighs heavily in the favour of household names.
“When I started my brand, the landscape of luxury women’s footwear was quite different; there were so many emerging designers,” Andrew told BoF. “There’s a niche in a market for independent players.”
Learn more:
Paul Andrew to Exit Ferragamo in Company Shakeup
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To stabilise their businesses brands are honing in on what their particular consumer wants to buy, introducing new categories and starting conversations.
That’s the promise of Zellerfeld, a 3D-printing partner to Louis Vuitton and Moncler that’s becoming a platform for emerging designers to easily make and sell footwear of their own.