Here, an oily quilted jacket over a crocheted top or a dark brocade trailing threads was less suggestive of menswear — or womenswear, for that matter — than a faded aristocracy.
Buried in the murk were artfully doubled jackets, skillful new proportions and intriguing decorative elements. But is creativity enough in the darkness? Maybe not.
Rei Kawakubo returned to the mutated Edwardian silhouette that has underpinned her menswear from almost the beginning. But although there was buoyant colour, Kawakubo’s dissection of the suit had teeth.
Reí Kawakubo presented a synthesis of ideas that disturbed, rather than reassured.
Paris men’s fashion week was a deeply escapist affair, yet designers like Rick Owens — who staged the best show of the season — ran away from reality to construct a new one.