The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
In a year when global luxury sales grew fast, LVMH’s brands grew faster.
The owner of Louis Vuitton, Dior and many other labels reported 2021 revenues that rose 36 percent year-on-year to €64.2 billion ($71 billion), growing 14 percent over 2019′s pre-pandemic levels. Profits more than doubled year-on-year to €17.15 billion, the company said Thursday.
Growth at the French luxury conglomerate continues to be driven by its biggest and most recognisable brands, Louis Vuitton and Dior, which have been rapidly increasing their share of the fashion market since the pandemic. LVMH’s fashion and leather goods division reported sales that grew 42 percent versus 2019, accelerating in the fourth quarter to grow by 51 percent by that measure.
Tiffany & Co., which LVMH acquired in January 2021, also posted a record year in terms of both sales and profits, LVMH said, despite the closure for renovation of its iconic New York flagship, which is set to reopen later this year.
LVMH grew more than three times faster in 2021 than the personal luxury goods market overall, which is expected to have risen by four percent over 2019 levels (adjusting for currency swings), according to estimates from consultancy Bain. In his annual speech to analysts and investors, chairman Bernard Arnault said the strong revenue growth was continuing so far this year.
“January’s sales reconfirm growth at the same rhythm as at the end of last year,” he said.
In addition to the record-breaking numbers at LVMH’s strongest units, Arnault had more to say than usual about some the group’s businesses that have faced a rockier road since the pandemic.
Celine, which had seen historic clients exit following an abrupt repositioning by Hedi Slimane in 2018 and 2019, may finally be taking off. LVMH had previously flagged that the brand returned to growth in the first half of 2021. Now Arnault says “it’s one of the fastest-growing fashion brands in the world.”
Whether those results are meetings targets, considering the intense level of investment LVMH has put in the brand since Slimane’s arrival, is less clear. In any case, Arnault’s bullish tone for the unit could suggest LVMH would favour leaning into the current inflection at the unit rather than pulling back. He said Slimane was “stuffed with talent.”
Beauty retailing giant Sephora’s sales are back above 2019 levels, LVMH said, thanks mainly to strength in its e-commerce operations. That unit, too, had faced an uphill climb since the pandemic, as it relies on retail foot-traffic in districts that have been calmed by telework and the lack of tourism. (Sales tactics that involve sharing testers with other clients and being touched by sales associates weren’t Covid-friendly either.)
LVMH’s retail unit owning Sephora, DFS, and Paris’ Le Bon Marché and Samaritaine department stores was nonetheless the group’s worst-performing, with sales still down 18 percent versus 2019.
Perfume and beauty sales were still down slightly, which LVMH attributed (as in recent quarters) to its choice not to redirect inventory to the grey market to make up for a drop in wholesale orders.
Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholder’s documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence.
How the designer used fashion with a message to make a storied couture house relevant for a new generation — and helped turn it into a commercial juggernaut.
The designer’s posthumous show, set in the sky, suggested his halo could help the business continue to shine.
LVMH’s mission to turn Celine into a multi-billion dollar business got off to a rocky start, but there are signs the brand may be turning a corner.
Today, as Dior stages a destination runway show in Italy, a new report shows the LVMH-owned brand's finances inching closer to those of its oldest rival, fashion-and-beauty juggernaut Chanel.
Join us for a special Masterclass, as BoF’s luxury editor Robert Williams, along with a panel of experts, unpack our latest case study Inside Hermès’ Best-in-Class Leather Goods Strategy.
The Cannes film festival is no stranger to high fashion. Entrance-making gowns and jewels are almost mandatory, particularly after the luxury jeweller Chopard redesigned the festival’s highest prize, the Palme d’Or, in 1998.
The privately-held fashion and beauty giant’s sales rose 17 percent to $17 billion in 2022. Private salons for top-spending clients, emerging technologies and a new London headquarters are on new CEO Leena Nair’s agenda.
How a unique approach to supply chain, design, communications and retail has powered blockbuster demand for iconic bags like the Birkin and Kelly, enabling the French leather goods house to face down rivals and become a global megabrand with a market capitalisation greater than Nike’s.