The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — Trademark, the accessories line founded by Tory Burch's stepdaughters Pookie and Louisa, is closing. Resort 2019 will be the final collection sold in stores.
Founded in 2014, Trademark was best known for its Italian-leather bucket bags and crafty gingham-print totes, a favourite among fashion editors and creative elites.
Trademark closed its New York flagship in 2017, ditched its ready-to-wear line and changed factories in order to offer its accessories at lower prices — mostly under $500 for shoes and handbags — while still sourcing materials from Italy.
The strategic repositioning saw initial success and the company was on track to triple sales as of July 2018. “Customers are buying in multiples,” Louisa Burch told BoF at the time. “Just seeing that has been really exciting. It’s the price point we always want to shop at.”
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In order to further scale, Trademark would’ve had to once again change its sourcing, which was not what the Burches wanted, a person with knowledge of the company said.
Trademark’s primary investor was Burch Creative Capital, the investment firm founded by the Burches’ father, Christopher.
“After much consideration, Louisa and Pookie Burch have decided to take a pause from Trademark, their accessories label,” the brand said in an email statement. “Louisa and Pookie are extremely thankful to their retail partners, talented team and loyal customers who have supported them along this journey.”
The mid-priced handbag market has become saturated in recent years with newcomers such as Wandler, Danse Lente and Staud — another brand backed by Burch Creative Capital.
“This consumer is very educated, they really know what they want, which makes our jobs more complicated,” Pookie Burch said in July. “You have to be on your toes.”
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