Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Op-Ed | Macy's Downfall Doesn't Spell Doom for All of Retail

Macy's shares tumbled Thursday after the department store chain reported sales had fallen in the first quarter from a year earlier, the ninth such quarterly decline in a row.
Macy's department store, Manhattan | Source: Shutterstock
By
  • Bloomberg Gadfly

NEW YORK, United States — Thank goodness the fates of retail and the US economy are not tied to the darkening future of department stores.

Macy's Inc. shares tumbled Thursday after the department store chain reported sales had fallen in the first quarter from a year earlier, the ninth such quarterly decline in a row. What's worse, the sales drop followed a 6.1 percent decline in the same quarter a year earlier. And instead of concrete plans for fixing Macy's problems, new CEO Jeff Gennette offered trite one-liners about growing e-commerce and "stabilising" the brick-and-mortar business.

Retail stocks broadly fell on Thursday — including even Amazon.com Inc. — as investors worried about what Macy's dismal performance meant for the industry.

A rash of bankruptcies and store closures, along with Amazon's relentless rise, have led to widespread fears about the death of traditional retail. The US has lost more than 50,000 retail jobs in the past three months. And the industry is certainly struggling to keep up with rapid change, as consumers cut back on spending while shifting more of what they do spend online.

ADVERTISEMENT

But Macy's is not the retail proxy it once was, back when the only place shoppers could get a Coach bag or a Ralph Lauren jacket was at the downtown department store. At $25 billion in annual sales, a drop in the $5 trillion US retail bucket, Macy's performance should not be a read on the broader industry.

And for now, at least, US retail sales overall are rising every year, according to Census Bureau data. The industry as a whole is growing.

That's not the case for department stores and some specialty stores, where the beginning of the end officially started a few years ago and the finish line is still a long slog away.

According to Census data, sales at department stores, specialty clothing shops, electronics and appliances stores, and office-supply retailers are actually shrinking. Fewer people are going into these stores, and their sales have been falling for years. For this particular group, this is akin to a recession.

Just as Wal-Mart Stores Inc. crushed mom-and-pop stores with the supercentre, Amazon's online supercentre is sucking the life from department and specialty stores. At the same time, off-price giants such as TJ Maxx parent TJX Cos. and beauty superstar Ulta Beauty Inc. are also taking market share from Macy's and its ilk.

But the retail industry does go on, even if its biggest players change.

And it's worth noting, for the growing number of investors shorting retail stocks, that it can take a very long time to kill a retailer.

Take Sears Holding Corp., clearly in decline but still bringing in $22 billion a year in sales — nearly as much as Macy's. CEO Eddie Lampert, in a rare phone interview with the Chicago Tribune this week, mocked critics who predicted the chain's demise decades ago.

ADVERTISEMENT

There are too many people — including vendors, suppliers and mall owners — invested in keeping big department stores afloat for all of them to die very quickly. And bond markets and private equity investors keep happily extending lifelines to Sears and other chains.

Eventually the lights will go out for many of these department stores. But that day of reckoning isn't here yet.

By Shelly Banjo; editor: Mark Gongloff.

This column does not necessarily reflect the opinion of Bloomberg LP and its owners. The views expressed in Op-Ed pieces are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of The Business of Fashion.

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Retail
Analysis and advice from the front lines of the retail transformation.

Brands Owed Millions After Matchesfashion Collapse

Designer brands including Gucci and Anya Hindmarch have been left millions of pounds out of pocket and some customers will not get refunds after the online fashion site collapsed owing more than £210m last month.


Op-Ed | How Long Can Adidas Surf the ‘Terrace’ Trend?

As a push to maximise sales of its popular Samba model starts to weigh on its desirability, the German sportswear giant is betting on other retro sneaker styles to tap surging demand for the 1980s ‘Terrace’ look. But fashion cycles come and go, cautions Andrea Felsted.


How Rent the Runway Came Back From the Brink

The rental platform saw its stock soar last week after predicting it would hit a key profitability metric this year. A new marketing push and more robust inventory are the key to unlocking elusive growth, CEO Jenn Hyman tells BoF.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024