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Burberry and Gucci: Two Brands With Something to Prove This Week

Both labels are trying to reignite sales and push upmarket, but convincing consumers won’t be easy. Runway shows this week will be another chance to make their case. That, plus what else to watch for in the coming days.
A model walking down the runway
Burberry Spring-Summer 2024 (Getty Images)

Burberry and Gucci, which both show this week, have a lot to prove. Both labels have underperformed their peers for years and are betting on “brand elevation” strategies and designer resets to boost results. So far, they have provided case studies in how hard shifting consumer perception and pushing a brand upmarket can be, especially in a tough market where luxury demand has slowed.

At Burberry, it’s unclear whether the brand can command the price points that Daniel Lee’s looks require or whether the designer can adapt his vision to the label’s current reality. What’s more, while the brand has found some fresh, more elevated ways to tap into the “Britishness” of its DNA, much of what it has released recently has been too niche and complicated a take on what makes Britain desirable for most Burberry shoppers. Will the upcoming show click?

Meanwhile at Gucci, Sabato De Sarno’s palette-cleansing debut in September (an approach that was “mirrored” in his first men’s outing in January) helped put the brand back on the radar, but there wasn’t enough newness to generate the kind of heat the label needs to kick things back into gear. De Sarno’s collections have been precise, sexy and youthful, but have thus far failed to tell a story about what the new Gucci stands for. The designer needs to show he can do more than create desirable clothes. After the Alessandro Michele boom (and subsequent stagnation), what Gucci needs is a more stable but equally desirable brand story.

What Else to Watch for This Week

Sunday

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BAFTA Awards held in London

London Fashion Week: JW Anderson, Supriya Lele, Connor Ives, Dilara Findikoglu

Monday

London Fashion Week: Burberry

Wednesday

Milan Fashion Week: Diesel, Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Etro

OECD Forum on Due Diligence in the Garment and Footwear Sector

Thursday

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Milan Fashion Week: Prada, Moschino (Adrian Appiolaza’s debut), Tom Ford

Friday

Milan Fashion Week: Tod’s (Matteo Tamburini’s first collection), Gucci, Marni, Versace

Renewcell reports full-year results

Saturday

Milan Fashion Week: Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, Bally, Bottega Veneta

The Week Ahead wants to hear from you! Send tips, suggestions, complaints and compliments to brian.baskin@businessoffashion.com.

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