The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
LONDON, United Kingdom — Kim Jones spawned an entire generation of young London-based cyber-sportswear designers, from Christopher Shannon and Nicola Formichetti to Nasir Mazhar and Bobby Abley, and it's been fascinating to see how distinctly each of their voices has evolved within such a clearly defined vocabulary: a hoodie is a hoodie, a tracksuit is a tracksuit.
Abley’s specialty is cartoon-cute. His latest collection featured the warm fuzzies of mohair and teddybear fur (his logo is a teddy) and the primary colours of Brazil, a land he loves. He was also inspired by the Mighty Morphin Power Rangers, as if you couldn’t tell from the palette, the go-go graphics and the helmets carried by Abley’s boys and girls. But cute can turn terminal toot sweet. This designer dodged that bullet yet again with a healthy dose of sex appeal, the way his teddy bear was splayed across a tanned Carioca chest, for example. It raised an eyebrow, added a knowing edge to the collection. Not such kid’s stuff after all.
And designer Sabato De Sarno doubles down with his Cruise ‘25 show for the brand, writes Tim Blanks.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.