The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Craftsmanship has become a hot topic in the fashion industry in recent years as luxury brands move to secure their supply chains and underscore the craft credentials that help set them apart from more mass market propositions.
But the emphasis on craft can sometimes come across as overly nostalgic. ‘Homo Faber,’ a sensational showcase featuring over four hundred creators that just opened in Venice, avoids this trap, focusing on craftsmanship, from porcelain to embroidery, as a form of humanism that is very much alive and kicking.
The fashion element appears in “Details: Genealogies of Ornament,” an exhibition-meets-showcase conceived and curated by “exhibition maker” Judith Clark. Set within the abandoned spaces of the Nautical School on the Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, “Details” is a display of clothing in cabinets — Roberto Capucci’s abstractions, Azzedine Alaïa’s voluptuous architectures, Elsa Schiaparelli’s pop baroque — punctuated by live performances by skilled artisans.
While watching working artisans on show can sometimes feel like watching a monkey in a cage, in this case the approach worked. The set offered sufficient context, arranged as a constellation of studios and workstations, while the performance served to bring a sense of animation to age-old craft.
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Luxury Brands Have a ‘Respect Deficit’ with Indian Artisans
Brand leaders who claim that craft is the lifeblood of luxury should see worker welfare as a moral duty that aligns with their strategic business interests. But protecting the valuable skills of Indian artisans is not the same as valuing the artisans themselves.
The luxury goods maker is seeking pricing harmonisation across the globe, and adjusts prices in different markets to ensure that the company is”fair to all [its] clients everywhere,” CEO Leena Nair said.
Hermes saw Chinese buyers snap up its luxury products as the Kelly bag maker showed its resilience amid a broader slowdown in demand for the sector.
The group’s flagship Prada brand grew more slowly but remained resilient in the face of a sector-wide slowdown, with retail sales up 7 percent.
The guidance was issued as the French group released first-quarter sales that confirmed forecasts for a slowdown. Weak demand in China and poor performance at flagship Gucci are weighing on the group.