The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Shares of Moncler, Tod's and other European luxury stocks dropped as Société Générale analysts flagged a succession of "negative signals" from high-spending consumers in that region, the Middle East, China and Japan that could trigger sales and profit downgrades.
Moncler was the worst-performing clothier on the Stoxx 600 Personal & Household Goods index, trading down 2.7 percent at 3pm in Milan, while Tod's fell 4.1 percent to its lowest level since August 2009, based on closing prices. Swatch Group lost 2.3 percent in Zurich, while Kering, LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Hermès International and Burberry Group were were down at least 1 percent.
“The third phase of a sector slowdown scenario has just started,” Thierry Cota and Antoine Riou, analysts at Société Générale in Paris, wrote in a report to clients. “We should only get a sense of the scale of the downcycle by mid-2019. So, when do we move back in? Not anytime soon.”
Concerns about a potential slowdown in demand from affluent Chinese millennials — a key engine of growth for the makers of designer clothes, pricey handbags, jewellery and watches — have been pushing luxury stocks lower since early October. Goldman Sachs analysts in a separate note cut their price estimates on stocks including Kering, LVMH, Swatch and Tod’s.
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Luxury-industry revenue is likely to grow 5 percent in 2019, slowing from growth exceeding 10 percent this year, the Goldman Sachs analysts wrote, scrapping a previous prediction of a 7 percent gain for next year. Travel-related demand “looks more vulnerable,” and more recent commentary from companies “highlights a deterioration in November: this is important, given the proximity to Christmas and the Chinese New Year holiday periods,” they said.
“Luxury-goods demand is dependent on the feel-good factor,” the Goldman analysts said. “Our key concern with regard to the short-term outlook is that spending is postponed, rather than cancelled.”
Sales of luxury items are facing particular disruption in France because of the recent Yellow Vest protests that led to store shutdowns Saturday in central parts of Paris. The country’s finance minister dubbed the riots “a catastrophe” for the economy and retailers. Tourism in the capital, an important source of revenue for companies including Hermès, also has slumped.
By Albertina Torsoli with assistance from Hanna Hoikkala and Blaise Robinson; editors: Celeste Perri, Tom Lavell, Paul Jarvis.
This week, Prada and Miu Miu reported strong sales as LVMH slowed and Kering retreated sharply. In fashion’s so-called “quiet luxury” moment, consumers may care less about whether products have logos and more about what those logos stand for.
The luxury goods maker is seeking pricing harmonisation across the globe, and adjusts prices in different markets to ensure that the company is”fair to all [its] clients everywhere,” CEO Leena Nair said.
Hermes saw Chinese buyers snap up its luxury products as the Kelly bag maker showed its resilience amid a broader slowdown in demand for the sector.
The group’s flagship Prada brand grew more slowly but remained resilient in the face of a sector-wide slowdown, with retail sales up 7 percent.