Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

H&M Names New CEO in Surprise Move

The company surprised investors with the announcement that H&M brand head Daniel Ervér will takeover from outgoing chief Helena Helmersson.
H&M has named brand chief Daniel Ervér as the fast fashion giant's new CEO.
H&M has named brand chief Daniel Ervér as the fast fashion giant's new CEO. (H&M)

H&M’s CEO unexpectedly quit on Wednesday and company veteran Daniel Ervér took over with immediate effect, as the Swedish fashion retailer struggles to boost sales and profitability.

Shares in the Swedish fashion retailer dropped 8 percent as outgoing CEO Helena Helmersson said she had decided to leave the company after four years in the top job, adding the role has been “very demanding” and telling journalists she did not have the energy to continue.

The leadership change came as H&M said sales for December and January fell by 4 percent compared to the previous year, a bad sign for the key Christmas shopping period.

The world’s second-biggest listed fashion retailer after Inditex, H&M has struggled to compete with Zara and low-priced fast fashion giant Shein, both of which have seen strong sales growth.

ADVERTISEMENT

“I think the market will welcome the change after digesting the numbers,” said Adil Shah, portfolio manager at Storebrand in Oslo, which holds H&M shares.

“Speculation that margin targets will not be met is one of the reasons being stated for the CEO change,” he added.

H&M has focused on profitability rather than sales volumes recently as it aims to reach a 10 percent operating margin this year.

Ervér, 42, has been at H&M for 18 years, most recently as head of the retailer’s core H&M brand, a role he will keep alongside the CEO job.

“We think there’s a lot that needs to be done or could be done to turn around this business, and the question is whether or not a person who’s been there for 18 years is the right person, or even has the mandate to take those steps,” said Bernstein analyst William Woods.

H&M’s fourth-quarter operating profit margin fell to 7.2 percent from 7.8 percent in the third quarter. Having previously said its goal was 10 percent, the company on Wednesday called it an “ambition”.

Measured in local currencies, sales from Dec. 1 to Jan. 29 - the start of its fiscal first quarter - fell by 4 percent, compared to an increase of 5 percent in the same period last year. Sales over the fourth quarter had also fallen 4 percent, more than the market expected.

Fourth-quarter operating profit was 4.33 billion crowns ($415.4 million), up from 821 million a year earlier but below the 4.57 billion expected by analysts in an LSEG poll.

ADVERTISEMENT

JPMorgan analysts said the results were disappointing, and that the weakness of H&M’s fourth-quarter profit “slightly reduces (the) credibility” of the 10 percent margin target.

Karl-Johan Persson, H&M chairman and grandson of the founder Erling Persson, said the company is in a strong position with “good conditions to make further improvements” this year.

The shares were down 8 percent at 154 Swedish krone by 0840 GMT having risen about 29 percent in the last 12 months.

By Marie Mannes in Stockholm and Helen Reid in London; Editor: Anna Ringstrom

Learn more:

Under Pressure From Shein, H&M Reaches for Upmarket Shoppers

In seeking to attract more aspirational shoppers, H&M is boosting its image through high fashion collaborations.

In This Article
Organisations

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Retail
Analysis and advice from the front lines of the retail transformation.

Brands Owed Millions After Matchesfashion Collapse

Designer brands including Gucci and Anya Hindmarch have been left millions of pounds out of pocket and some customers will not get refunds after the online fashion site collapsed owing more than £210m last month.


Op-Ed | How Long Can Adidas Surf the ‘Terrace’ Trend?

As a push to maximise sales of its popular Samba model starts to weigh on its desirability, the German sportswear giant is betting on other retro sneaker styles to tap surging demand for the 1980s ‘Terrace’ look. But fashion cycles come and go, cautions Andrea Felsted.


How Rent the Runway Came Back From the Brink

The rental platform saw its stock soar last week after predicting it would hit a key profitability metric this year. A new marketing push and more robust inventory are the key to unlocking elusive growth, CEO Jenn Hyman tells BoF.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024