Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Lululemon Results May Signal Further Squeeze for Athleisure

The last few years have seen a surge in the number of retailers offering athleisure clothes, ranging from mass-market products to $1,000 leggings.
Lululemon | Source: Lululemon
By
  • Reuters

NEW YORK, United States — The steep drop in Lululemon Athletica's stock price, following a sales warning that resulted from poor colour choices in the company's spring collection, turns the spotlight on slowing growth in the athleisure category pioneered by the Canadian yogawear retailer.

Shares of rivals Nike Inc and Under Armour also were down on Thursday, raising questions of whether athletic leisure wear can maintain its torrid growth amid competition from denim and possible shopper fatigue with the now decade-old fashion category.

In the age of fast fashion, when trends change overnight, athletic leisure wear is showing signs of age. Industry-wide sales in North America have grown 39.2 percent to $26.05 billion in the last five years, according to Euromonitor.

However, sales in the category are expected to grow at 5.2 percent in 2017, slower than the average 6.9 percent rate at which the category had grown in the last five years.

ADVERTISEMENT

The latest quarterly results have also indicated a slowdown from the marquee manufacturers.

The last few years have seen a surge in the number of retailers offering athleisure clothes, ranging from mass-market products sold by retailers such as Gap Inc to $1,000 leggings from designers such as Alexander McQueen.

"There is no more the growth that was there before and there are way more competitors for the brand (Lululemon) compared to when they'd started 10 years ago," Jan Rogers Kniffen, chief executive of consulting firm J. Rogers Kniffen WWE, said.

A hash of celebrity brand launches, including Beyonce's Ivy Park line in April last year, has also competed for sales at the traditional retailers.

"Nordstrom has got a private label on athleisure, (J.C.) Penney has also got a private label on athleisure, Kohl's has got a private label on athleisure. Everybody is doing it at every price point," Kniffen said.

A comeback in denim, led by 1970s-inspired wider leg denim pants and higher waist jeans from Forever 21 and H&M , is also eating into demand for athleisure wear.

"We continue to believe trend shifts away from athleisure to denim will present stiffening headwinds to LULU," Canaccord Genuity analyst Camilo Lyon said.

The stock market is giving the industry little room for error. Nike's shares fell as much as 7.3 percent after the company reported lower-than-expected quarterly revenue last month, while Under Armour's shares fell 28 percent in January after it forecast 2017 sales well below analysts' estimates.

ADVERTISEMENT

"Over the past 12-24 months, other athletic wear bellwethers such as NKE and UA have seen meaningful multiple contraction once sales started slowing and margins stopped expanding," said Ike Boruchow, analyst with Wells Fargo, in a research note.

The market on Thursday showed little patience for Lululemon's disappointing results, too. The company's shares closed down 23.4 percent at $50.76.

By Gayathree Ganesan and Sruthi Ramakrishnan, additional reporting by Anya George Tharakan and Jessica Kuruthukulangara; editor: David Greising.

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Retail
Analysis and advice from the front lines of the retail transformation.

Brands Owed Millions After Matchesfashion Collapse

Designer brands including Gucci and Anya Hindmarch have been left millions of pounds out of pocket and some customers will not get refunds after the online fashion site collapsed owing more than £210m last month.


Op-Ed | How Long Can Adidas Surf the ‘Terrace’ Trend?

As a push to maximise sales of its popular Samba model starts to weigh on its desirability, the German sportswear giant is betting on other retro sneaker styles to tap surging demand for the 1980s ‘Terrace’ look. But fashion cycles come and go, cautions Andrea Felsted.


How Rent the Runway Came Back From the Brink

The rental platform saw its stock soar last week after predicting it would hit a key profitability metric this year. A new marketing push and more robust inventory are the key to unlocking elusive growth, CEO Jenn Hyman tells BoF.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
The Business of Beauty Global Awards - Deadline 30 April 2024