Alessandro Dell'Acqua

Alessandro Dell'Acqua pulled back on decoration to focus on a 1940s silhouette that felt overly referential, but his offbeat hues gave things a lift.

At No.21, pleats, feathers and demure silhouettes were shred to pieces and reassembled in gritty collages that still looked beautiful and sophisticated.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua's cool girls in smeared make-up and greasy locks furiously raided the catwalk, looking fantastic in haphazard layerings of glorious hand-me-downs.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s parkas and field jackets made for a modish military mix-up that missed the point.

From Alessandro Dell'Acqua to Thom Browne, menswear designers in Milan took inspiration from military references — with mixed results.