The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — Style as individualist collage might be fashion's current mantra, but Dell'Acqua is no mere follower. Fashionistas are short-sighted, but he was actually here before many, right when No.21 began to take off a few years back. Today, it was interesting to see the designer being irreverent. He clearly wants to move on and break the formula. The grungy take on 1930s languor worked. There was a kind of dirty energy that felt raw and appealing. There were also quite a few references — Prada's tropicália, tellingly — but that is just part of the modus operandi of contemporary fashion designers: appropriation as creative form.
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.