The industry’s opaque and sprawling supply chain does tremendous human and environmental damage. Companies offering new tools say they have solutions.

Billions of dollars of investment are needed if the industry is to operate more sustainably. But there is little evidence brands are prepared to pay for it, according to new analysis from The BoF Sustainability Index.

By cancelling orders with Indian suppliers during the country’s chaotic lockdown, global brands are making impoverished workers even more vulnerable in a market where 60 million people depend on the fashion industry for their livelihood.

At least 20 percent of India’s billionaires can thank the fashion business for part of their fortunes. Global brands have lots to learn.