The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
LONDON, United Kingdom — John Galliano, recently appointed creative director at Maison Martin Margiela, will show his first 'Artisanal' haute couture collection in London on January 12, 2015 "around tea time". It was previously reported that the designer would debut his first designs for the fashion brand, owned by Italy's Only The Brave (OTB) group, during Paris Couture Week, where the collection will also be presented by appointment.
Last week, Galliano appeared on stage in London at the British Fashion Awards to present Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, and artistic director for Condé Nast, with her Outstanding Achievement award. Wintour also wore a Margiela by John Galliano design to the ceremony, in what has been widely interpreted as an unambiguous show of support.
Galliano took the reins at Margiela in October, having been absent from the fashion world since 2011, when he was dismissed from his post as creative director of Christian Dior after being filmed making racist and anti-Semitic remarks while inebriated in a Paris bar.
"Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul," said Renzo Rosso, president of the Only The Brave (OTB) group, which owns Maison Martin Margiela, in a statement at the time of the designer's appointment. "John Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time. A unique, exceptional couturier for a Maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion. I look forward to his return to create that fashion dream that only he can create, and wish him to here find his new home."
The appointment was viewed by some as a surprising choice for Margiela, whose Belgian founder was known as fashion’s invisible man. Galliano, on the other hand, is renowned for his showmanship and the appointment suggests that Rosso may have big plans for the Margiela brand.
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.