The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
A year after pledging a wide-ranging slate of diversity goals, Estée Lauder Cos. says it’s made strides on its internal anti-racism work — and that it still has further to go.
The cosmetics giant, which has now taught a racial bias class to 94 percent of its US corporate and field employees, will be rolling out similar trainings worldwide over the next fiscal year, according to an internal memo reviewed by Bloomberg. It has also boosted diverse hiring, with 9.2 percent of new US roles filled by Black candidates in the year through June 2021, an increase of 3 percentage points year on year.
More programmes on racial and social equity will be laid out in the year ahead, given a need to “address additional critical areas,” the memo says.
The new diversity efforts were in response to activism in the company ranks last year amid a wider corporate reckoning with race and inclusion around the country.
“One year ago, we came together for some of the most pivotal discussions in our company’s history regarding race,” chairman William Lauder and chief executive Fabrizio Freda said in the memo to employees Tuesday morning. “The movement in the aftermath of George Floyd’s murder in May 2020 sparked a deeper and needed conversation.”
Although industries from finance to health care have been grappling with their own institutionalised racism during the past year, the cosmetics industry in particular has been called out for its need to change, given it’s the sector that presides over cultural beauty norms. The major labels have long been criticised for the lack of diversity in ads and their failure to serve people of all skin colours with their often limited range of products. That’s let more inclusive startups without that historical baggage made inroads, threatening the traditional beauty giants.
Now the industry is trying to rehab its relationships with employees and shoppers of colour. Ulta Beauty Inc. and Sephora, two of the world’s largest specialty beauty retailers, have each vowed to crack down on staff bias and promised to sell more Black-owned brands.
Estee Lauder, which owns brands such as Clinique and La Mer, has seen shares rise 14 percent this year through Monday’s close, just ahead of the S&P 500′s gain.
By Kim Bhasin
Long known for his music and fashion influence, the multi-hyphenate reflects on his expanding beauty business.
The line, which makes up more than half of the designer’s total business, is revving up its ambitions, with new retail partners and a new category launch: fragrance.
In New York City, leaders from Shiseido, Victoria Beckham Beauty, Aēsop and Glossier joined The Business of Beauty’s executive editor, Priya Rao, to hear her insights on the evolving opportunities in the sector.
Designer collaborations with beauty lines can offer shoppers status, but it’s unclear which party benefits more.