The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
At Milan Fashion Week, Prada showed its Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. In the latest episode of Backstage Pass, Imran Amed talks to industry insiders to decode why Prada has been such consistently influential brand. Imran spoke to Cathy Horyn, Katie Grand, Tracee Ellis Ross, Somi and many others.
Read More: Prada: The Message Is Love
Imran Amed talks to industry insiders to understand how Matthieu Blazy’s uses the power of craft and innovation at Bottega Veneta. At one of the most impactful shows of Autumn/Winter 2024 season, Imran spoke to artists, designers and entertainers including Asap Rocky, Simone Marchetti, Kelly Wearstler and Anita Elizabeth Bitton to understand how Blazy creates fashion moments.
Read More: Milan Tries to Make Sense of the World
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At Milan Fashion Week, Etro showed its Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. Imran spoke to creative director Marco de Vincenzo, as well as Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Alek Wek, Suzy Menkes, Bryan Boy and others to decode what Etro is all about.
Read More: Is There Space for Radical Design in a Climate of Conservatism?
Watch the latest episode of BoF’s Backstage Pass where Tim Blanks meets Peter Hawkings to learn about his sophomore collection for Tom Ford.Resist or embrace? Iconoclast or understudy? Peter Hawkings clearly loves being in control at Tom Ford after 25 years working as Ford’s right hand. “I’m creating my woman, my man,” he said emphatically before his show in Milan
Hawkings insisted there was no archive-diving. It’s all forward with Ford. If the shadow cast by his old boss was as long as the spotlight-dappled catwalk in the outré revelation of clinging mesh or near-nude net confections, Hawkings’ experience as Ford’s menswear designer suggested he was probably more at ease with the gold-buttoned navy looks or the pin-sharp tailoring of three-piece suits, worn shirtless by all genders. When he showed see-through flasher’s macs in latex, they were primly buttoned to the throat.
But Hawkings insisted the inspirational creature he had in mind for his collection — his powerhouse wife Whitney aside — was actually the Pola Woman, the strong-shouldered dominatrix archetype who ruled photographer Helmut Newton’s fetishistic universe. “Powerful, glamorous, free to be as dressed or undressed as she chooses,” was how he described her. Hawkings imagined his tailoring as a kind of armour, elevating her, keeping her standing tall.
Read More: Gucci and Tom Ford: The Ease of Repetition, the Challenge of Change
For Francesco Risso’s first Marni show back in Milan after traveling shows in New York, Tokyo and Paris he created a venue like a blank slate, covered with white paper. Everything in the collection was made by hand, painted, crafted, pieced together. A Marni show feels like being transported into a different universe, and so different from the manufactured and polished tents of the mega brands.
Read More: Comings and Going in Milan
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Imran Amed talks to industry insiders to understand what makes the Versace woman. On Saturday the brand showed its Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, Imran spoke to the show’s makeup artist Pat McGrath and hair stylist Guido Palau, as well as Gigi Hadid, Imaan Hammam, and others to decode what Versace is all about.
Read More: Comings and Going in Milan
“You can have an evolution without having a revolution.”
In the latest episode of Backstage Pass, Imran Amed talks to Ferragamo’s show producer Etienne Russo, Liu Wen, Mona Tougaard and other insiders about the brand’s evolution through creative director Maximilian Davis.
Read More: Is There Space for Radical Design in a Climate of Conservatism?
Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy finds hope in resilience, the Meiers swathe Jil Sander in security and Giorgio Armani goes back to nature, writes Tim Blanks.
Adrian Appiolaza arrives at Moschino, Francesco Risso whites out reality at Marni and Donatella Versace still loves Prince, writes Tim Blank
Sabato de Sarno and Peter Hawkings find it hard to escape from Ford’s shadow, writes Tim Blanks.
But their powerful collection suggests that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aren’t naive enough to believe that love is all you need, writes Tim Blanks.
Glenn Martens and Kim Jones had a very good day on Monday. Wookies! Chuba Chups! Whatever next!
Imran Amed is the Founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief of The Business of Fashion. Based in London, he shapes BoF’s overall editorial strategy and is the host of The BoF Podcast.
Tim Blanks is Editor-at-Large at The Business of Fashion. He is based in London and covers designers, fashion weeks and fashion’s creative class.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.