LONDON, United Kingdom — Never underestimate the wonderfully transformative powers of a drawstring: Louise Trotter did wonders with them at Joseph, pulling, ruching, crumpling and reconfiguring roomy separates and a bevy of windbreakers, simultaneously paying homage to the idea of contemporary nomadism — urban and otherwise, a red-hot topic in these times of utter uncertainty and seemingly constant migration — as well as the wonderfully bonkers styles of 90s conceptual darlings Bless. At least, someone's not quoting dear old Helmut Lang or Martin Margiela. 

Building in crescendo, the collection reached a peak at the end of the show, when the layering and multiplication of pieces got really crazy. At times, it all looked just like a poignant styling exercise, but for sure this was a collection that made you thing about today — and we are not just talking fashion.