MILAN — Fashion has become big business. Increasingly this means aesthetic decisions are made, not in the design studio, not even in the atelier, but in the merchandising and marketing departments. Designers are no longer free to take risks and the result is collections whose authorship is diluted or else heavy handed in order to be heard.
Does Sabato De Sarno, whose debut at the creative helm of Gucci was the most highly anticipated moment of Milan Fashion Week, aim to be a fashion auteur? He clearly does, but he seems intent on taking a bottom up approach: working on the product before the vision. The choice left this critic disappointed. De Sarno delivered a collection that was perfectly fine with a fresh energy and a young vibe. However, there were few clues as to the direction in which he aims to take the brand. If normality was the goal, let it be radical normality. The fact is, much of what De Sarno delivered is already out there… but let’s give the guy some time.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Curiously, everybody was expecting De Sarno go Gucci à la Tom Ford and there were quite a few nods in this direction. But it was Peter Hawkings’ debut the day before at the helm of the Tom Ford brand that teleported us straight to the late 90s, complete with velvet tuxedos, slinky dresses, Elsa Peretti-esque buckles and satin shirts. With the world gravitating back to that moment in fashion, it was a wise move on Hawkings’ part, but for more seasoned viewers it looked a little déjà vu. Next time around I’d love to see some more personal, novel tweaks to the template.
Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) More than anything, simplicity was in the air in Milan this season. Simplicity in its many shades: both a reaction to extravagant design meant for social media and a drive towards commerciality. The thing is, simplicity conceived as complexity resolved can be exciting, even timeless. Otherwise, simplicity risks being elementary and forgettable. Milan had plenty of both.
In his last show at Tod’s, Walter Chiapponi delivered an exceptionally emotional, agitated take on severity: one that took 90s references and a love for the classics in a very personal direction. Simone Bellotti delivered the goods with his Bally debut in what was one of the pleasant surprises of the season. The show was a gem of severity and grace, reassessing Bally’s Swissness with an intelligent touch. There were probably way too many traces of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, where Bellotti previously worked, but nothing that further polishing can’t trim away.
Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Tod's Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) At Ferragamo, in what looked like his best outing so far, Maximilian Davies softened the irrepressible precision with a healthy dose of flou and injections of colour. His usually dry take on simplicity warmed up a bit, finally, but it’s still hard to see exactly where the brand is going. So far, it looks like Italian lightness infused with old Celine. But if there’s still a sense of momentum missing, the accessories were certainly on point.
Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital) Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital) There were still echoes of Phoebe Philo and quite some Loewe at Jil Sander, but it was refreshing to see Lucie and Luke Meier finally let go and inject some pomp and some grandness into the Jil Sander codes, breaking the mould. It makes sense. Minimalism today is owned by the high street, while a merging of severity and frivolity, as the Meiers delivered, is more attuned with the times in which we are living.
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 66. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 67. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 68. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 69. (Indigital) Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2024 look 70. (Indigital) Straightforwardness and function coalesced in an elongated line at MM6. Daniel Del Core delivered a more focused message. But despite the lively touches of orange and the painterly colour blocking, the newly sombre ladies at Fendi looked more like chic beguines than the free Roman ladies they were heralded as. At Ferrari, Rocco Iannone keeps trying to build a luxury fashion imagery around the automotive brand. It’s not an easy task. The battle between Iannone’s fashionable intentions — this season everything was deliciously clean — and the rather obvious racing references was on full display. But this outing looked more fashion than merch: a step forward.
In the reductionist climate, the 90s are still an obsession. At Sportmax, the vibe was whitewashed deconstruction/reconstruction with a clinical sense of seduction. Despite the rather odd, cybersex toy bags, this was a strong outing. At N.21, the pointy flats and the sparkly sheath dresses gave Prada-esque vibes, but not in a bad way, as Alessandro Dell’Acqua managed to bring a hefty dose of his very own Neapolitan sense of sensuality to the proceedings and the result felt personal.
At Versace, it was 1995 all over again: checkerboard opticals and demure 60s prettiness with a sexy bent. Paying homage to the archives is perfectly legitimate, but what Donatella Versace has been doing of late feels too much like a carbon copy. Dolce & Gabbaba redid sharp seduction much in their very own, black-cloacked 90s way, complete with garters and pencil skirts. It was a masterful exercise in dressmaking, but the iconography seemed in a way quite dated.
Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 66. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 67. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 68. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 69. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 70. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 71. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 72. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 73. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 74. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 75. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 76. (Indigital) Versace Spring/Summer 2024 look 77. (Indigital) Elsewhere in Milano, simplicity was not even an option. On the contrary it was bolts of more, more and even more. At MSGM, the accumulation bordered on the chaotic: the intent was commendable, the execution a little less. In his third outing at Missoni, Fillppo Grazioli keeps channelling the house’s founding idea of put together into body-con, sheer, seductive layering. It’s a fresh, youthful way to interpret the heritage: one that, however, could use some energising. Missoni cannot be so tame.
Glenn Martens is happily wild and untamed, and Diesel is the temple where he lets himself go in a feat of distressed denim, glamour and in your face sensuality, and we are all very happy about that. Fausto Puglisi is equally wild. The more he delves into the Roberto Cavalli world, the more he turns into Roberto. The flaming creatures that populated this season’s tropical fantasy, with their caftans, floaty blouses and tailoring all bore a striking resemblance to forever muse Eva Cavalli.
Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 66. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 67. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 68. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 69. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 70. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 71. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 72. (Indigital/Indigital) Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 look 73. (Indigital/Indigital) Etro was in equal parts bonkers and rational, in a way that is entirely Marco De Vincenzo. After two rather uncertain seasons, De Vincenzo finally found a personal take on the historic house, accelerating on both the multi-culti psychedelia and the twisted strictness. It felt like Etro, but also not so Etro, and it, finally, had the mark of authorship.
Ah, authorship: an unfiltered, individual point of view — personal, if not always original — is increasingly rare in fashion. Independence certainly helps, as Mr Armani, who keeps doing purified things over and over again, testifies. So does having a small operation. Sunnei keeps pushing the boundaries of playfulness with shows that are amusing in the most immediate of ways, and fashions that are graphic, upbeat, easy. This time attendees were allowed to score the looks and it felt like a perfect commentary on our collective need for instant judgements.
Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 1. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 2. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 3. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 4. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 5. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 6. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 7. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 8. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 9. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 10. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 11. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 12. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 13. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 14. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 15. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 16. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 17. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 18. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 19. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 20. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 21. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 22. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 23. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 24. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 25. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 26. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 27. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 28. (Indigital) Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 look 29. (Indigital) Karoline Vitto staged a show on the last day of Milan with the help of Dolce & Gabbana, and it was such an assured proposition: a way to deal with different bodies in a truly empowering way. Sexy has never looked so open and political. There was plenty of sexiness, mixed with a debauched tomboyishness and the idea of glamour coming undone the morning after at the debut show of The Attico, the brainchild of Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini. Everybody who is somebody attended the outing, which took place on the street in the tony arco della pace neighbourhood. The crowd gathered to cheer for the girls, glitzy denizens of the most fabulous demimonde. And yet, The Attico is not another attempt at turning influencers into designers. Gilda and Giorgia are auteurs in the sense that they cater to their peers: beautiful girls with lavish bank accounts who enjoy life. This collection, although a bit heavy handed, was a celebration of the joys of life and sex, offering a bolt of vitality.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 48. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 49. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 50. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 51. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 52. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 53. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 54. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 55. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 56. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 57. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 58. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 59. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 60. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 61. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 62. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 63. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 64. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 65. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 66. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 67. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 68. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 69. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 70. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 71. (Indigital) Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024 look 72. (Indigital) Matthieu Blazy certainly aspires to the role of auteur and Bottega Veneta offers him ample room to manoeuvre in terms of craft and technique. This is commendable, but his hand is way too heavy, so much so that the beauty one sees on the catwalk is almost impossible to translate in life. The volumes, the details, the surfaces are a veritable feast of creation but also abstract exercises detached from the moving body.
Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 1. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 2. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 3. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 4. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 5. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 6. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 7. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 8. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 9. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 10. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 11. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 12. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 13. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 14. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 15. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 16. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 17. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 18. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 19. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 20. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 21. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 22. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 23. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 24. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 25. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 26. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 27. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 28. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 29. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 30. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 31. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 32. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 33. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 34. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 35. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 36. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 37. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 38. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 39. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 40. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 41. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 42. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 43. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 44. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 45. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 46. (Indigital) Prada Spring/Summer 2024 look 47. (Indigital) It takes a master to own excess and real life credibility in a moment of such depressing banality — and that master is Miuccia Prada, whose intensely wrought, fringed, washed, grommeted and powerfully sexual outing, amidst weirdly sexual drips of slime, was the standout moment of the season. It was a pradissima collection that reassessed the glaring contrasts and the slight perversions that make Prada’s codes so powerful. And it was moving to see Fabio Zambernardi, the behind-the-scenes design director who’s been instrumental in shaping those codes, take a bow alongside Mrs Prada and Raf Simons, as he prepares to leave the company. That’s authorship too.