The Italian luxury outerwear firm will discontinue its Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge runway collections after the Spring/Summer 2018 season, announcing a new strategy in the coming weeks.

The execution was truly superb, but it is really time for Thom Browne to explore new territory.

In a season particularly focused on realism, conceptual theatrics can seem a bit pointless. But Thom Browne's quilted jackets and rubber macs looked appealing way past the catwalk.

An absurdist foray into boy scout regalia, complete with outsized pockets, shorts and protective rainwear.

A product without an author is lifeless and anonymous, says Angelo Flaccavento.

More was expected of Thom Browne, who showed camouflage from start to finish.

From Alessandro Dell'Acqua to Thom Browne, menswear designers in Milan took inspiration from military references — with mixed results.