On the first two days of New York Fashion Week, designers Peter Do and Stuart Vevers showcased their takes on storied brands.

“More than ever we need non-fussy clothing,” the designer told BoF in a preview of his debut collection for Helmut Lang — the once-groundbreaking label’s first outing in four years.

Designers this week were laser focused on pleasing their customer, but rarely managed to convey what’s happening in the culture at large. Lauren Sherman reports on collections, from Tory Burch and Tom Ford to Area and Peter Do.

The battle over reproductive rights gave the return of New York Fashion Week added resonance, reports Lynn Yaeger.

Intense financial and social pressures are fundamentally changing the business of fashion. What does this mean for the next generation of tastemakers and creatives?

From financing to navigating a shifting retail market, a host of obstacles are standing between emerging designers and sustainable growth.

This month, our Spotlight shines on the Phoebe Philo protégé whose womenswear line won over top stockists with its modern staples and youthful tailoring.