BoF's guide to the changing fashion calendar tracks new operating models and approaches, brand by brand.

In Paris, Dell'Acqua delivered his best collection since joining Rochas, a breezy, painterly affair channeling the very sense of lightness that Cedric Charlier lacked.

Cedric Charlier’s take on clean lines and stiff fabrications has an urban glare which is all his own. At times, so strict it almost looks militaristic.

"The seed bed of young talent has produced fresh shoots in a crowded Paris calendar. In the last of the four cities, at the start of a nine-day run,