New York Fashion Week will run from Feb. 10 to 15, opening with Rodarte and closing with Luar, who was named CFDA’s 2022 accessories designer of the year in November. Designer Thom Browne, the recently appointed CFDA chairman, will show his Autumn/Winter 2023 collection on Feb. 14. It marks a homecoming of sorts for the designer who typically shows in Paris and hasn’t held a show during New York Fashion Week since September 2021, timed to the opening of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s In America: A Lexicon of Fashion exhibit. Heron Preston, another American who has historically presented in Paris, will show in New York for the first time.

Absent from the preliminary schedule were Tommy Hilfiger, who staged a Fashion Week comeback in September 2022, and the recently acquired Tom Ford — who returned to closing out the event last season, following his decision to cancel his Autumn/Winter 2022 show due to Covid-related disruptions. A spokesperson confirmed the brand will release its Fall/Winter 2023 collection online, with details to come. Peter Do, who has quickly become a New York favourite, was also not on the schedule. The brand declined to share further plans at this time.

The schedule features 75 runway shows and presentations. Fashion week regulars including Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera, Gabriella Hearst, Coach and Proenza Schouler will hold shows, as will downtown favourites Eckhaus Latta, Collina Strada and Puppets & Puppets. Elena Velez and Catherine Holstein’s Khaite, last year’s CFDA winners for emerging designer of the year and womenswear designer of the year, respectively, are also set to show. Christian Siriano’s runway show will be held before the week’s official kick-off, on Feb. 9.

In addition to Preston, other newcomers include Kallmeyer, Kate Barton, Koltson Cucculelli Shaheen, Ayama Studio, Nayon and Zimo. New York Men’s Day will once again take place on the first day of the calendar, with A.Potts, Terry Singh and Nobis set to present collections.