The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — Ralph Lauren Corp. plunged the most in a year after posting disappointing holiday-season sales, signaling that a comeback under new Chief Executive Officer Patrice Louvet may be tougher than expected.
The preppy fashion label reported a same-store sales decline of 6 percent last quarter, which included the crucial Christmas season. Analysts had projected a 4.3 percent drop, according to Consensus Metrix.
Though the company topped Wall Street estimates for profit, the weak sales suggest Ralph Lauren is still struggling to regain its cachet. Louvet, who took the helm in July, has tried to make the company more discerning about where it sells its Polo shirts and cashmere cardigans. In recent months, the New York-based brand has been withdrawing from 20 to 25 percent of its department store distribution points and reducing overall inventory.
But the strategy has taken a toll on sales — North America revenue fell 11 percent — and it’s not clear when the company will return to growth mode. Ralph Lauren expects sales in the current quarter to drop by as much as 10 percent, and its annual outlook calls for a plunge of up to 9 percent.
Clarity, Relevance
Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData retail, said that while the company’s sales decline seems to be flattening out, Ralph Lauren still hasn’t managed to connect with shoppers.
“The main brand issues are still clarity and relevance,” Saunders said in a note following the report. “Many consumers are unclear about what Ralph Lauren stands for or what it has to offer; therefore, they do not see the brand as being entirely relevant to them.”
The shares fell as low as $107.03 before erasing part of the loss. Ralph Lauren had been up 10 percent this year through Wednesday’s close.
Cost cutting and pockets of growth — in Asia, for instance — helped earnings top analysts’ estimates. Profit excluding some items of $2.03 a share in the period surpassed the average estimate of $1.87.
“There is still a lot of work to be done to return to industry-leading revenue and earnings growth, but these results give us confidence that we are on the right track,” Louvet said in the statement.
By Kim Bhasin; editors: Nick Turner and Jonathan Roeder.
The World Economic Forum in Davos, a retail convention in New York and menswear shows in Paris will command the industry’s attention. Plus, what else to watch for this week.
The owner of Lanvin, Sergio Rossi and other brands is the first fashion company to list on a US exchange in a year. But the tough economy and investor skepticism about money-losing start-ups is likely to keep others from following suit.
Kanye and Adidas, Johnny Depp and Dior: celebrity marketing can be a minefield as well as a goldmine — and social media has raised the stakes.
High-end brands continue to report record sales and profits, even as mass retailers trim their outlooks for the autumn and winter. Can it last?